tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82400593906340495152024-03-13T07:44:56.611+05:30Sustainable Dignity - Corey and Gina in IndiaA chronicle of our two-year work placement in Koraput, Orissa, India. Voluntary Services Overseas (VSO) is sending and training us. NGOs in Koraput are employing us. Corey is working as a management information systems (MIS) advisor. Gina is working as a communications advisor.Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comBlogger171125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-29144069045509392542011-10-25T09:10:00.003+05:302011-10-25T09:11:00.842+05:30Goodbye, Koraput<p><b>Corey writes:</b></p>
<p>Gina and I are now in Kolkata, waiting to leave India. Everything feels kind of unreal right now. Everything is in flux. It feels very much like Oct 2009, just before we left the US.</p>
<p>We said goodbye to friends that we will genuinely miss. It wasn’t until this last week when I had to say goodbye to people and places in Koraput that I realized just how comfortable it had become. We had friends, we had work, we had a home. We’d grown roots without noticing. I feel sad that we have to uproot ourselves again. I feel proud that we thrived in a foreign place. I feel excited to have an adventure in Nepal and Thailand. I am greatly anticipating coming home.</p>
<p>Our last memory of Koraput will be the train station, with all of Gina’s co-workers helping us with our bags and finding our seats and giving us flowers.</p>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QNgHD0LIa-Y/TqYdARw5FfI/AAAAAAAAAPk/T7eH_rZHLRc/s1600/IMG_0154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QNgHD0LIa-Y/TqYdARw5FfI/AAAAAAAAAPk/T7eH_rZHLRc/s400/IMG_0154.JPG" /></a></p>
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<p>To the people of Koraput, we say "thank you". The shop owners who I visited every week on market day, co-workers who eventually learned to trust me, friends and neighbors who invited us into their homes for meals, the tribal villagers who endured our staring during field visits, the children with their never-ending "hihowareyous".</p>
<p>There’s not much else to say about Koraput that hasn’t already been said on this blog. I’ll end by stealing something that Gina said on Facebook that’s worth repeating:</p>
<q>Dear Koraput, I usually loved you, I sometimes hated you, but I never regretted meeting you. Goodbye. I will never forget you. I hope to see you again.</q>Corey Gronehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02128452841178617774noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-89145603673172714992011-10-18T12:42:00.000+05:302011-10-18T12:42:27.652+05:30One Last Time<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
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On Saturday, I had the last-minute opportunity to go on a field visit, accompanying an external evaluator to hear about the impact of SPREAD's programs from the perspective of the villagers. The evaluator turned out to be an American with decades of experience living and working in countries all over Africa, Asia, and South America, so it was interesting to hear about his life. I was more interested though, to soak in the experience of being out in the villages for what I knew would be the last time. We leave Koraput on Sunday morning!<br />
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Even on the 2+ hour drive to the field area, I had to fight back a tiny tear, thinking about the vistas that I'm leaving behind.<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WGwF4Ln-sHHW1En-dJFhO3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qk2GBnuIPiU/Tp0TLGWmvOI/AAAAAAAACG4/WK1cAIADevs/s400/IMG_0098.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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Both villages that we visited had been told that this visit was extremely important to the continuation of SPREAD's programs in the area, so the welcome was extra-special, with garlands of flowers, turmeric and seeds thumbed on our foreheads, and drums and dancing.<br />
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When the villagers crowded around to discuss SPREAD's activities, I realized that it was possibly the last time in my life when I'd be able to quietly observe the dynamics of village life in rural India.<br />
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In the first village, the women and men were separated into two groups and I sat with the women's group while the evaluator asked questions through a translator. Since the women don't talk much if there's only one group, it was interesting to hear how SPREAD's activities have affected their lives directly. The translations made for slow going though, so I had ample time to take in the small details that I love about village life.<br />
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Boys with their arms wrapped around each other, love it!<br />
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A small baby enthralled with a tiny goat.<br />
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Boys playing on a bike.<br />
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We visited two villages where the whole village came together to discuss SPREAD's impact. Between those visits, we went to Kajuripadar, where SPREAD has a field office that I've visited before. There was a women's group meeting taking place there, with women from 10 different villages. The evaluator asked some questions about the operation of the group.<br />
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After the translated questions was the most heart-wrenching part of the day. Malti, who is the president of the entire women's group, is a tribal woman who lives in Kajuripadar and has led the group to do amazing things to fight for forest rights, ban liquor, and more. A few months ago she was in the SPREAD office and, somehow, we ended up really connecting. I was just using my basic Oriya and she was just laughing at my pronunciation, but it was the first time that I'd had the opportunity to spend time one-on-one with a tribal person without them feeling extremely shy and me feeling extremely awkward. It's hard to explain, but her caring and lighthearted nature came across in that hour sitting outside the office. I saw her again a few days later and we made tentative plans for me to visit the village again, since SPREAD has a field office there. With winding up work at SPREAD, however, there wasn't time. So I was ecstatic to know that we'd be dropping in to Kajuripadar. <br />
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After the meeting, I asked if I could have a picture taken with her. She happily agreed. <br />
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Tribal women are small!<br />
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Then the rest of the women's group wanted a picture with me, which made me so happy. I love this picture!<br />
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I wish I'd met Malti earlier in my time here in Koraput, but even the small connection that we had is something I will always cherish. Seeing her again and sitting in the midst of these amazing women really did make me catch my breath, because I know that the closest I will ever come to being "one of them" is right now. I of course will always be an outsider even if I visit later in life, but after two years of practicing Oriya, making field visits, staying in their villages, and building relationships with the SPREAD staff so that they know they can trust me, I feel comfortable sitting in a village with these people and they feel more at ease with me.<br />
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People have been asking us a lot lately when we'll come back to Koraput. The answer that we've taken to giving is, "Sure, in 5 or 10 years, we'll come and we'll bring our children." Whether it's the response that we've settled on for ease of answering or it's a true prediction, only time will tell.Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-50476688315170224062011-10-13T20:35:00.000+05:302011-10-13T20:35:38.588+05:30Websites Across Cultures<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
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While here in India, I've done some web design and print design projects for the 2 NGOs that I've worked for (SOVA and SPREAD) as well as for a few other NGOs that have VSO volunteers. When fellow volunteer Sheila asked me if I would consider redesigning the website for Shakti, the organization that she works for, I was confident that I could use what I've learned in the past 2 years to manage the project efficiently and with minimal frustration.<br />
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There were aspects that highlighted the specific considerations necessary when working across cultures:<br />
<ul><li><b>Working for free</b> - Based on a negative past experience when working for free, I knew how important it was to clearly define the scope of the work and to be firm about limiting request after request after request for "one last change". I developed various decision points or "gates" after which no changes could be made -- the template was chosen, then look and feel was customized, then navigation was finalized, then content was provided. I was flexible to some extent, but Shakti understood and respected that requests for changes after the "gate was closed" were limited.</li>
<li><b>Working via email</b> - Communicating primarily online is not a preferred method of working for most Indians, who greatly value the personal relationship and face-to-face contact. Fortunately, Sheila was at Shakti helping to manage the project from that end and vouching for my expertise. She and her boss also made the 4-hour trip to Koraput in July, which helped her boss to trust me more and showed me they were serious about the project.</li>
<li><b>Designing for Western and Eastern</b> - The website has varied audiences: other Indian NGOs and international funding organisations. The Indians expect lots of color and don't mind flashing, moving elements. Western viewers prefer more subdued, polished sites. It was interesting to keep both sets of expectations in mind when determining the look and feel. I also had to be firm in my declarations of what was "best practice" in responding to some requests from the boss.</li>
<li><b>Training</b> - Part of the project was a visit to Shakti to conduct updating/maintenance training for the staff. I really enjoyed developing the training materials, trying to meet the needs of 3 people with varying levels of English comprehension and very little knowledge of HTML and basic web design principles. I was proud of what I developed and of my delivery, remembering to speak simply and slowly and check often for comprehension.</li>
<li><b>Free, off-line tools</b> - It goes without saying that Shakti cannot afford to purchase expensive web design software like Dreamweaver. They also are determined not to use the widely-available pirated software, which is respectable. Thus, I needed to find a tool for them to make changes that was free (or very cheap) and easy to use. It also needed to allow for editing off-line, as Shakti's power/Internet situation is extremely unstable. I spent <i>a lot</i> of time evaluating different options and found one that really impressed me.</li>
</ul><p>The goal for a "go-live" date for the website was early September. Of course that deadline is long past. Even so, the site is well on its way to completion.</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vLooYQ89WLUqIDF7nF_BNHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0fEwY_G5bVA/Tpb7IZx24lI/AAAAAAAACGI/R8614X-FO5g/s800/screenshot.jpg" height="750" width="492" /></a></p><p>I was in Rayagada for 2 days this week training the team and was very pleased with their understanding of the concepts. To Shakti staff, thanks for being great students and welcomings hosts. Now I just hope we can get it to a public-ready state in the next 9 days before I leave!</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/111228557266829410806/SustainableDignityCoreyAndGinaInIndia?authkey=Gv1sRgCPXPtsOg_oSHRQ&feat=embedwebsite#5662989546953237650"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VFeASGkDzXk/Tpb6_Tjl5JI/AAAAAAAACGE/6WlNdW4EmMs/s400/PA120235.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></p>Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-85414884499890555762011-10-06T19:00:00.000+05:302011-10-06T19:00:45.609+05:30Peace.Beauty.Picnic.<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
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Do you ever have a moment when you're super-relaxed, feel totally calm, and have successfully kept all of life's worries at bay? Corey and I had a whole 3 hours of that today on our picnic. The walk there, the scenery, the weather, the food, the conversation...perfect!<br />
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There's an area just under 2 miles from our house that I've gone to while running a few times. It's an isolated area with lush vegetation, rolling hills, and rivers and ponds. The feeling of running alone through such beauty was something I wanted to share with Corey, so we decided to plan a picnic for today, which is the second day of a three-day holiday.<br />
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We packed a small American-style picnic lunch, which was fun to plan and prepare. Corey made his famous cornflake-breaded chicken and we made a mayo-based pasta salad. I made apple pie, but it had been in our wimpy little oven for 3 hours by the time we left and was just about finished, so I shut the oven off and looked forward to coming back to warm pie!<br />
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We were a little nervous to hear some loud chewing/crunching not more than 20 feet from us, but were relieved to find out that it was <i>just</i> a herd of about 10 water buffalo grazing! Seriously, these guys were hanging out just 15 feet from us!<br />
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Of the 8 bottles of wine that we've had over the past two years (I know, we should slow down, right?), we saved my favorite for last, Corey's parents' homemade wine. It's (I think) the last of the 30 or so bottles that they made about 3 years ago, a fantastic white wine, sweet-but-not-too-sweet, called Symphony. The picnic spot was the perfect place to enjoy it.<br />
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Don't worry, mom-in-law and dad-in-law, we <i>mostly</i> drank out of cups!<br />
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After our meal, we read and relaxed for an hour or so. Corey fell asleep shielding his face from the sun (and didn't know that I took this picture)!<br />
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We walked home and, just as predicted, the apple pie had finished baking in the shut-off oven and was still warm. Add a little homemade caramel sauce and it was a delicious finish to a fantastic afternoon.<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/FV25TEKe9ix1zTpZk0ICSHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gNR3SG1AXi4/To2n-LPsyLI/AAAAAAAACF4/582SQE5F46I/s400/IMG_0056.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a>Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-16469984268768875472011-10-04T12:46:00.000+05:302011-10-04T12:46:35.955+05:30Final Field Foray<p>
<b>Corey writes:</b></p>
<p>Last week my VSO Programme Manager, Praveen, came to visit Koraput. He was here to do my final review and to check up on the progress of the <a href=“http://sustainabledignity.blogspot.com/2011/08/my-latest-project.html”>SAMADHAN project</a>. He was also here to make a field visit and he asked me to come along. More about that later.</p>
<p>Praveen arrived on Thursday and we spent an hour catching up. We haven’t seen each other since June and he just returned from a month trip to Kenya and Canada. It was interesting talking to him about some of the differences between North America and India. Praveen is also very knowledgeable of development in India so I like to pick his brain about different topics.</p>
<p>One of the topics that has been debated in the press and government recently is the upcoming BPL survey. BPL stands for Below the Poverty Line. Basically the Indian government is responsible for surveying the population and identifying which households are BPL (poor). Once your household is identified as BPL you are then entitled to a number of social security plans, including subsidized rice, flour, and kerosene. If you are interested to learn more, you can check out the <a href=“http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Below_Poverty_Line_(India)”>Wikipedia page</a>.</p>
<p>There are many reasons why this is a hotly contested issue. Citizens and NGOs want to widen the social safety net and make sure that no one that is poor is left out. The government wants to limit the social safety net and maximize the tax revenues left over for investment in other areas like public works, education, defense, etc.</p>
<p>As a development professional, Praveen is concerned that the proposed criteria for the next survey will exclude many families with disabled people in them. He wanted to interview some families with disabled members living in Koraput and to find out the real costs associated with supporting a disabled family member in rural India. Towards that goal, we set out at 8am on Friday to Bandaguda, a village about 20 km from Koraput town.</p>
<p>We arrived at the village along with some staff from Ekta, another local VSO partner. Praveen and the Ekta staff sat down at the first households to interview the first family. It consisted of three members: a daughter, a mother, and a grandmother. Domni, the daughter has multiple disabilities and is totally dependent on a caretaker. In addition, the family’s earning ability is really curtailed without an adult male member. So the mother, 40, and the grandmother, 65, have to do manual labour to support the family. Every time Domni needs to go to the hospital, the mother and grandmother have to forgo a day of wages and spend about 600 rupees in transportation and medicine. They have spent around 10,000 rupees over the last ten years caring for Domni. But because there are non-disabled adult members of the family they are not considered BPL.</p>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sVdBg6C3Ofk/ToqigZkSWcI/AAAAAAAAAOI/HbCEEcrZXvY/s1600/Common%2BArea%2BOutside%2BDhomney%2527s%2BHouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sVdBg6C3Ofk/ToqigZkSWcI/AAAAAAAAAOI/HbCEEcrZXvY/s400/Common%2BArea%2BOutside%2BDhomney%2527s%2BHouse.jpg" /></a></p>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dSSTW85jTdw/ToqigQTAr1I/AAAAAAAAAOQ/haAlz19t0iI/s1600/Front%2Bof%2BDhomney%2527s%2BHouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dSSTW85jTdw/ToqigQTAr1I/AAAAAAAAAOQ/haAlz19t0iI/s400/Front%2Bof%2BDhomney%2527s%2BHouse.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KcSiSlp910Y/ToqigovI6PI/AAAAAAAAAOY/vhrP_LmCQI0/s1600/Dhomney%2BInside%2BHer%2BHouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KcSiSlp910Y/ToqigovI6PI/AAAAAAAAAOY/vhrP_LmCQI0/s400/Dhomney%2BInside%2BHer%2BHouse.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q-txixCllPA/Toqigt1KGLI/AAAAAAAAAOg/ngXBD12rVT8/s1600/Praveen%2Band%2BAshok%2BSitting%2Bwith%2BDhomney%2527s%2BGrandmother.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q-txixCllPA/Toqigt1KGLI/AAAAAAAAAOg/ngXBD12rVT8/s400/Praveen%2Band%2BAshok%2BSitting%2Bwith%2BDhomney%2527s%2BGrandmother.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>Next we went to another part of the same village and interview two more families. Both were in similar financial straits to Domni’s family. The first included Mitun, a young boy with multiple disabilities. His family is a little better off as his father can work and earns about 2000 rupees per month. However, the family took a loan of 10,000 rupees to pay for treatment for Mitun and are still repaying this loan. The last household has three brothers and a father, the mother recently died. Two of the brothers were disabled which meant that the third brother and the father had to forgo work or school to care for them. They have also taken on a loan of 20,000 rupees at 10% interest. These last two families are also not counted as poor under the latest iteration of the BPL criteria.</p>
<p>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fQe3yO2qysg/Toqig2UEMjI/AAAAAAAAAOo/zQO1tsrLl1M/s1600/Meethoon%2BSitting%2Bin%2BFront%2Bof%2Bhis%2BHouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fQe3yO2qysg/Toqig2UEMjI/AAAAAAAAAOo/zQO1tsrLl1M/s400/Meethoon%2BSitting%2Bin%2BFront%2Bof%2Bhis%2BHouse.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1SW_lfx6pVw/ToqitM_NeiI/AAAAAAAAAOw/VAr16cfFt8U/s1600/Meethoon%2BInside%2BHis%2BHouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1SW_lfx6pVw/ToqitM_NeiI/AAAAAAAAAOw/VAr16cfFt8U/s400/Meethoon%2BInside%2BHis%2BHouse.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2XfoWdSQUiA/ToqitRJeDcI/AAAAAAAAAO4/ETPd_TIgGKU/s1600/Gopal%2BIn%2BFront%2Bof%2BHis%2BHouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2XfoWdSQUiA/ToqitRJeDcI/AAAAAAAAAO4/ETPd_TIgGKU/s400/Gopal%2BIn%2BFront%2Bof%2BHis%2BHouse.jpg" /></a></p>
<p>As always, I liked the chance to get out into the field and do some work. This will probably be my last time. I hope that Praveen is successful in his efforts to revise the BPL criteria so that these families and others like them will get some help.</p>
Corey Gronehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02128452841178617774noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-21079599691895195282011-09-29T15:47:00.000+05:302011-09-29T15:47:18.937+05:30Indian English 2<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
More than a year ago, we collected Indian English phrases that were common in Koraput and <a href="http://sustainabledignity.blogspot.com/2010/06/indian-english.html">blogged about them</a>. Since, there have been quite a few other turns of phrase that we can add to the list.<br />
<br />
Our friends that visited us in March said that they noticed slight changes in our patterns of speech--that we spoke more slowly and with fewer words. It's true, plus we have adopted the use of some of these phrases/words even when speaking just with each other. So if you're confused by our language once we return to the U.S., just refer to this blog entry!<br />
<ol><li><em>"I didn't get you"</em> - You say this when you didn't understand someone's language. I like this one, because it's clear that the person talking doesn't need to speak louder, but just repeat themselves, probably enunciating more or using different words.</li>
<li><em>"Googly"</em> - I have no idea where this came from, but Google is often pronounced Googly and Skype is often pronounced Skypee. You try keeping a straight face when your boss says to "check it on Googly"!</li>
<li><em>"Cyber-caf"</em> - Pronounced cyber-calf, the alternative to internet cafe.</li>
<li><em>"Side"</em> - I've fully adopted this one, it's how to say "please move so that I can get past you" with the fewest words possible. Less confusing than "excuse me" also.</li>
<li><em>"Like anything"</em> - Appending this to the end of a statement expresses intensity, such as "These people will cheat you like anything."</li>
<li><em>"Tiffin"</em> simultaneously means the container that you carry your meal in, breakfast, and snack.</li>
<li><em>"Time-pass"</em> is when you do something for leisure but with no particular goal, like chatting with friends. So if I'm talking with friends or reading a magazine and someone asks me what I'm doing, I just say "time pass".</li>
<li><em>"Rubber"</em> - This is a new addition to my list. Just today, a co-worker asked if I had a rubber. It took me a startled second to realize that he must mean an eraser and not that other thing!</li>
<li><em>"Maximum"</em> is used in many cases, such as "The maximum best place to visit..", "..maximum quality beer..", and "..maximum people do this..".</li>
<li><em>"Do one thing"</em> is a common way to start giving advice and it's hardly ever followed by just one thing! For instance, if I were having computer problems, an Indian might say: “Do one thing. Clear your history. Delete your cookies. Defrag your hardrive. Run a virus check. Restart your computer.”</li>
<li><em>"Peon"</em> - This one is hard for me to say without thinking of the derogatory usage that we ascribe to the word in America, but in India, it just means the lowest-level worker, like a gardener or cleaning lady.</li>
<li><em>"Prepone"</em> is the opposite of postpone, duh! Except it's hardly ever used in my experience, because meetings never happen early!</li>
</ol>These are the Indian phrases that have come to mind (or that I've jotted down over the past year). I'll make the point in closing that this list is not meant to insult Indians, but just to highlight a charming aspect of my time here.Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-44785557908943834352011-09-26T16:27:00.001+05:302011-09-26T16:36:22.457+05:30Running My Butt Off<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
About 6 weeks ago, I saw that there was going to be a big half-marathon (13.1 miles) in Bangkok, Thailand on the day before we were scheduled to fly back to the U.S. It seemed to be such a great opportunity -- a momentous event to mark leaving Asia, just enough time to train, and reason to be more serious about my on-and-off running regimen.<br />
<br />
From conversations with friends and hours of running by myself with my rambling thoughts, I realized that my experience running around in rural India is probably pretty interesting to my runner friends (and hopefully my non-runner friends too!).<br />
<br />
<b>"My" Stadium</b><br />
<br />
We're extremely fortunate to live just 1/3 mile from an outdoor stadium/track. It's not an ideal place to run -- it can by muddy and/or rocky, cows and dogs use it too, and there are often dozens of guys playing cricket with one eye and watching me with their other eye! If you can get past those downfalls, it's a pretty great resource to have. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tFT_LdQusKzR6xfomkJiO3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s25PspOzGrU/ToBG_eD-CkI/AAAAAAAACEk/twwATBkvKbo/s400/IMG_0096.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lS8cKlcxBtTBm1gQVroGIHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HECYmG4EmSQ/ToBHCc07gcI/AAAAAAAACEo/GlaWHepqVvA/s400/IMG_0097.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Actually, substitute the blue skies for gray skies and you'll see exactly what I was running in for most of the past 6 weeks. I had the track completely to myself for a vast majority of my runs, since the rain prevented a lot of the guys and teams from coming out! Just me and the cows...<br />
<br />
<b>Taking to the Roads</b><br />
<br />
When my training took me above 3 or 4 miles per run, it was way too boring to just go around the 1/4 mile track over and over, so I took to the roads outside of Koraput town. These roads aren't heavily traveled by vehicles, so it's just me and a bicycle or motorcycle every few minutes. It's hilly and sometimes I have to literally wade through dozens of cows making their way to a pasture, but the scenery cannot be beat!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gOyCe4tBojdRkythmjF5kXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z5GaDBHVlQE/ToBSHGMtMoI/AAAAAAAACE4/u_r2gbYTIdg/s400/IMG_0113.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/h9dBxYwW9iZ-oyDEUvlcpndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-znwQl44_sRw/ToBSD4foo6I/AAAAAAAACE0/mHn7hG5MZoQ/s400/IMG_0104.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Zwi97sHzpiqOfqZWzFxrRXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oaM0FWM2bmQ/ToBHGpQ8jGI/AAAAAAAACEs/pyikXlJVfZI/s400/IMG_0099.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
On my run two weeks ago, there was a wedding procession in the small village that I pass through. I had to navigate my way through dozens of grabby, drunk, dancing men and kids trying to shake my hand!<br />
<br />
<b>Too Rainy, Too Sunny</b><br />
<br />
Monsoon season this year was extremely mild...until 6 weeks ago, when it started raining 14 of every 15 days. Not kidding, there were only 3 days without rain in the past month and a half! The rain made it difficult to plan runs exactly when I wanted to, so I had to be flexible about running whenever there seemed to be a clearing of the clouds for an hour. The upside was that the constant overcast cooled the temperatures to a comfortable level.<br />
<br />
Yesterday and today were the first days of almost complete sun. The thing about temperatures in Koraput is that it's very dependent on the sun, so with the sun shining, the daytime temperatures are above 90 again. It made my run this morning VERY difficult. I have to adjust my training times for the next few weeks, I guess.<br />
<br />
<b>My Progress</b><br />
<br />
I'm not a very fast runner and the farthest I've run before is about 6.5 miles...once. Now I'm running 3 times during the week, runs of 3-5 miles, and a long run on Sunday. The long runs increase by about 1 mile each week. Last week's long run was 6 miles and yesterday's long run was 7.5 miles, which makes it the longest I ever ran at one time! There are 4 more Sundays left in Koraput, so I'll run 9, 10, 11, and 12 miles. I'm feeling good about it and can feel my muscles getting stronger, but I'm still nervous about the race. This is a good thing actually, because it gives me less of an excuse to skimp on training or take a day off my running plan.<br />
<br />
<b>Stop Staring, Dudes!</b><br />
<br />
I've run on and off since arriving in Koraput almost 2 years ago. It used to be really hard for me to deal with all the "stare bears". At the stadium, the guys playing cricket or volleyball just watch me whenever their not involved in the game. On the roads, if someone sees me running, their eyes never leave me and their body turns as I pass them (I call it the "traveling stare"...it happens when I'm just walking too, but not with such predictability). I'm not very fast, so it would embarrass me. Only in the past few months have I blocked out the anxiety about that completely; now I just feel proud to be a model of fitness!<br />
<br />
<b>A Plug for Nike</b><br />
<br />
The best fitness product that I ever bought was my Nike Plus unit. It's a little chip that attached to my shoe and a little connector that plugs into my iPod. The movement of the chip calculates my distance, pace, and time and communicates it to the iPod so that I can check the numbers at any time during my run. It was only $30 and has allowed me to run anywhere I want and has motivated me to get faster and run longer.<br />
<br />
<b>Half-Marathon Fundraising</b><br />
<br />
I'm not (yet) doing a full push of fundraising for the half-marathon, but I do have a fundraising page set up <a href="http://seeyourimpact.org/members/ginagrone/">here</a> that you can check out. You can easily support specific projects in India for as little as $5 with Paypal, credit card, or Google.<br />
<br />
Wish me luck on 20 November at my first big race!Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-5378849703393219282011-09-20T17:09:00.001+05:302011-09-20T17:11:53.014+05:30A Glimpse of Village Life<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
When I go on field visits, I get to observe tribal culture and customs in a way that never comes across in my photographs. That's because my personal "code of ethics" regarding photography is fairly strict; I don't often take pictures of the villagers for fear of offending them and using them for my own gains without giving anything back.<br />
<br />
The SPREAD staff, however, are in a different position. They speak the language of the villagers, they've built rapport and gained trust, and the villagers can specify how the staff member has helped them (hopefully!). Thus, the following photographs, taken by my coworkers, can do what mine cannot -- give you a glimpse into what I see when I visit the field.<br />
<br />
First, the tribal women. Each tribe has certain jewelry, clothing and/or tattoos that signify their tribe.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Se6__ItXqQBA7Jq_iIHZsHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eThUZ66G6AA/Tnhun9wY4zI/AAAAAAAACDw/jaL-r7HF_dg/s400/DSC00851.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3Pl38200sBXosE53Ybk0xndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aoC2e-SVouE/TnhvBsTnXkI/AAAAAAAACEI/Pcia9cCWxXE/s400/web36.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/eBtDpGy7d8ZZ1pSxZpgNFXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_FwRl980PR8/TnhvMSTVjRI/AAAAAAAACEQ/j55OSMTcVVI/s400/221539_212652882080625_100000077445718_846093_4324092_o.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
(The camera is not part of her tribe's accessories, but it looks cool!)<br />
<br />
The tribal men often wear Western-style shirts and just a wrapped cloth around their hips instead of pants.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zuOMgLA2dBh4NnFgSu0QfndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NjkgXz0Iu5o/TnhutE-a8BI/AAAAAAAACD0/1GW0YhqlIjQ/s400/RighttoLand.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
ALL Indians have the ability to squat for hours on end. With their feet flat on the ground, it's not uncomfortable for them at all and is their preferred position of rest.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/EPqy4J9ER06tL6J6ZGnF9HdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--3hqORyheZs/Tnhui-aDNwI/AAAAAAAACDo/pxrW0mmfLMo/s400/Target2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
This picture of villagers waiting to pick up their subsidized rice shows a few interesting things. First, see how tightly they're packed into that line! This was taken in May, so it was likely more than 100 degrees. Second, see how there is a line for men and a line for women. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SHo3XzNzFK4j2zjPY8U3Q3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iVPiux4J-sw/TnhvHGwtVtI/AAAAAAAACEM/4Tu-g0FL2ao/s400/RighttoFood.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
This picture is the best one I have that shows what typical village looks like.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/akLalXC8e515Pca7a_hkP3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FbKc7ywzLYs/Tnhuy9oxZdI/AAAAAAAACD4/DTrGw7llvu0/s400/India_0114.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
All around Koraput, you can see women carrying jugs of water on their heads. They start practicing when they're little girls, with small cups of water. It's cute and sad.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/hjZDr8XXxUkMa_7926h9PXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-95yMmu81Y-U/Tnhv3fKv5BI/AAAAAAAACEU/X2okBHtzQQ0/s400/web38.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
This picture is interesting to me because it shows the reality of the village kids. They take awhile to warm up and start smiling and laughing and sometimes never do. Oftentimes, they're just confused about strangers coming to their village. Also, Indians don't usually smile for photographs, so smiles are more common in candid shots.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ThJsM99riFePTa-WdNE8o3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z5dGJTJmRbA/Tnhu7Vnb8mI/AAAAAAAACEA/pMGryq3lDfg/s400/India_0207.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
A village meeting will either take place on the cement platform that is in almost every village for just this purpose or in the school. A meeting is a good chance to see the Indians' different definition of "personal space". They crowd into the space even if there is plenty of room, very interesting.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8REHK3XsDWZU4HJ3rDwvKndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Cv0K97PaDfM/Tnhu3e6MjsI/AAAAAAAACD8/6eK6n-FHOKs/s400/India_0135.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/222rNaiYxmf6Uq60-Vy3TndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jBmuJjRl514/Tnhu_kFR0uI/AAAAAAAACEE/OkEiPNNU1xQ/s400/India_0443.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Having the chance these past 2 years to spend time with these people, even just in observation, has been amazing. Thanks to my coworkers, I now have some better pictures to remember it by!Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-25811984225214127232011-09-15T20:29:00.001+05:302011-09-15T22:24:56.518+05:30Happy Birthday, SPREAD!<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
Yesterday was SPREAD Foundation Day. 22 years ago, Bidyut signed the papers (or something) and the dream that he and his friends had to start an organization to help Koraput's rural poor was realized. To celebrate this day, SPREAD invites all of the staff to a celebration.<br />
<br />
In the afternoon, staff began arriving. The office was filled with chatter and commotion, which in all honesty, just made me feel lonely, working in my office, wishing I could speak better Oriya. I wanted to join in and help, but my presence sometimes makes the field staff, who speak no English, uncomfortable. Eventually, <i>all</i> the staff gathered in a circle and started peeling garlic and onions and cutting gargantuan amounts of vegetables.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IoV08AnfwQUxXcWMPCeaOuqmfQ6_-Y3nr8UF9r_rf1k?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z0e0JG9xEVg/TnILGEQYDTI/AAAAAAAACDc/wwYEGOL1Dl8/s400/IMG_0052.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
I joined in and kinda sorta mixed in with the group. My pitiful Oriya is always a good ice-breaker.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/J1IlEFzN4PxZqXx1P0uCNeqmfQ6_-Y3nr8UF9r_rf1k?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QUa14zT28YQ/TnILUOEFegI/AAAAAAAACDg/aA4PFG3Jo3w/s400/IMG_0056.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
A few hours later (notice how our sense of time has changed? a few hours of waiting around is no big deal...), pretty much everyone was there. We gathered in a tight circle around a <b>bright</b> pink cake and talked about SPREAD. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WueylZbqYKZvi1KKQexbGeqmfQ6_-Y3nr8UF9r_rf1k?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SkWg4t2ytio/TnILeT_k3yI/AAAAAAAACDk/tHxctdRt1A4/s400/IMG_0059.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
I only caught the gist of the conversation, but the long-time workers were recognized for their service and people shared their memories of their first day at SPREAD. Even though I couldn't understand the specific words, it was cool to know that the whole room was thinking about SPREAD as an organization and what it means to them.<br />
<br />
After story time, the cake was cut. In accordance with Indian tradition, certain people (the kids, in this case) fed cake to each other. I was wondering how they were going to efficiently distribute cake to the 50+ people crowded in the room, but I shouldn't have worried. Hands dived in from all sides, pieces were passed around to those standing on the outskirts (me), and the cake was demolished in under a minute!<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/EJtEfGcFLtHlAsJQ7iKj7eqmfQ6_-Y3nr8UF9r_rf1k?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SXuhvuhjkIA/TnIKl7NvCQI/AAAAAAAACDU/mJ3yOy1mupA/s400/DSC_0074.JPG" height="269" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Then there was the obligatory cake fight, which I did not participate in. :)<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kbdCk9vz3vV45asy_jOmvuqmfQ6_-Y3nr8UF9r_rf1k?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O-tZYBecQbc/TnIK18CJh2I/AAAAAAAACDY/6LFV-4jtb4A/s400/DSC_0079.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
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After finishing the cake, we sat down again and Bidyut discussed SPREAD's proud accomplishment from last week. Almost a year ago, 9 boys aged 11-16 were lured to migration work in Pune. After working 16-20 hours per day for many months, the contractor stopped feeding the boys and was killed as a result. After 1 boy escaped and travelled back to Koraput, SPREAD worked with other NGOs and officials to locate the boys, get them a fair sentence, and transport them back to Orissa. As of last week, all 9 boys are safe at home!<br />
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Then I was invited to speak about my experience at SPREAD. I was not prepared to speak and am not used to speaking with an interpreter, so it was awkward. But I managed to convey my gratitude to SPREAD for treating me as one of their own rather than a VIP, express my belief that I've gained more from them than they have from me, and invite them to contact me for any help via email in the future. It was sweet and sad at the same time, sort of a good-bye for me.<br />
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Soon after that, dinner was ready. It was as delicious as expected, complete with kheer (Indian rice pudding)! When I finished eating, I realized that it was after 10 p.m.! My landlord was upset that I hadn't called him to let him know that I'd be late (oh India), so I hopped a ride home on a co-workers motorbike right away.<br />
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Happy birthday, SPREAD! Here's to 22 <i>more</i> years!Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-33769551136770450332011-09-07T13:23:00.000+05:302011-09-07T13:23:06.066+05:30Worldwide VSO Network<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
There have been many times in the past few years when I've realized what a great thing it is that VSO places volunteers <i>from</i> many different countries to work <i>in</i> many countries.<br />
<br />
1. I realized it before starting my placement, when attending the interview and 2 trainings in Ottawa. Since some parts of Canada speak French as their first language, there were two groups during the trainings, the English-speaking group and the "Francophone" group. Further, there were a number of volunteers who were living in Canada or the U.S. but were from other countries, including Peru, Kenya, and Poland. We were going to places all over the world, but we were also <i>from</i> places all over the world.<br />
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2. When we arrived in India, the international flavor was so much more amplified. In addition to being in India, we were in the month-long training with other volunteers from the England, Scotland, Ireland, the Phillipines, Kenya, Australia, and Canada. <br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JlI_Vcsxyn91fA9w-hTZKHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vrH3a0LXgFM/TbUdlRjsD1I/AAAAAAAABWQ/OjmtkJIEK8E/s400/P1020230-710770175-O.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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Our conversations weren't just about Indian culture and experiences; we learned a lot about each other's background and cultures too. An unexpected side of VSO that I didn't anticipate, but loved. Example: A few weekends ago, some volunteers came to stay in Koraput for the weekend, as a respite from the heat of Bhubaneswar. Our gatherings consisted of 2 Americans (me and Corey), 2 Australians, and Irish girl, and a Filipino!<br />
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3. I keep in touch with some of the volunteers that we were in training with in Ottawa, through blogs and Facebook. To know that the 64-year-old nurse in Sri Lanka and the family of 4 in Namibia and the young couple in Cameroon are experiencing similar things to me is comforting. It's interesting to have the shared perspective of all being VSO volunteers, but to learn about the countries that they are in as well.<br />
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4. I was glad once again for the "VSO network" when Corey and I were planning our post-placement trip in Nepal and Thailand. VSO has an office in both Nepal and Thailand and we've already been in touch with them, so they are available to us if we find ourselves in trouble or just need advice. Also, one American volunteer that we know has been working in Nepal for the past 2 years and another has been working in Thailand for the past 2 years. We'll have a chance to see one, if not both of them, for a meal while traveling! And they've been helpful with travel tips. What a great resource to be able to depend on!<br />
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5. After we return to the U.S., we'll be maintaining communication with a number of volunteers that we've met while here in India. We have open invitations to London and Cape Cod and we'd look up friends in Australia, the Phillipines, Canada, and Ireland if we were ever there on a trip. <br />
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What I'm trying to say is that my interactions with other cultures has been so much more than I anticipated. Discussions about the differences between "Western" culture and Indian culture are interesting, but they're made more fulfilling when the discussion is about U.S. vs. British vs. Filipino vs. Indian culture!<br />
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Oh...and any volunteers wanting to visit the great city of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania? OPEN INVITATION!!Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-43861609399455803522011-09-02T14:36:00.000+05:302011-09-02T14:36:48.851+05:30Ganesh Puja<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
Yesterday was a holiday to honor Ganesh, the elephant-headed god of knowledge and remover of obstacles. He's one of the head gods in Hinduism.<br />
<br />
SPREAD celebrated this holiday with a puja (religious ritual of blessing) in the office. I had witnessed this once before, for a holiday in January, but was excited for Corey to attend his first office puja. <br />
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We arrived at about noon for the 11:30ish puja. Just before 3 p.m. the priest finally showed up! Apparently, he's in high demand on festival days, rushing from one engagement to the next. We had to wait until after the puja to eat lunch, so the rituals got underway immediately.<br />
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All of the specific items were prepared and ready for the puja - milk with honey, sandalwood, certain leaves, colored powders, a squared mound of dirt, coconuts, fruits and sweets, and of course the Ganesh idol/statue. Bidyut, SPREAD's director, was dressed in traditional silk robes to perform the puja. The priest chanted and sang specific verses, while cuing Bidyut to perform actions at the right times.<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/x1UEn1m-q-koiQLdl-zL1HdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q9ntxQvBVZc/TmCWpFi9wKI/AAAAAAAACBk/hhBJKqIE2LE/s400/IMG_0003.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/nFQdM5PM7NkmVyqXvoho5ndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZPNbePyWfD4/TmCWr7dPYEI/AAAAAAAACBo/BKoohY21i2E/s400/IMG_0005.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
After about 15 minutes, my favorite part began. They built a fire right in the middle of the office! It got pretty big at one point.<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ht0u2v_JqHcOgRbZsA1eIHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-enD2EcasAiM/TmCWv7IIsLI/AAAAAAAACBs/hAPfMr1Z7_A/s400/IMG_0008.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Sjk3VIoe0oD8YNQYhFywAndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-R4tNIMcTrHw/TmCW2oJHXnI/AAAAAAAACB0/td0KQF8Q70o/s400/IMG_0017.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
The fire itself was not a problem, since the floors are concrete and their aren't curtains or anything to catch on fire. However, the room became extremely smoky after about 10 minutes and it was really irritating to the eyes.<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Eq9USWLL2950SbyNxMqcGXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VBHq62M_l28/TmCWyp0hf2I/AAAAAAAACBw/9ZqwQ3C6_k8/s400/IMG_0010.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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The entire puja only took 1 hour, the perfect length! Here is the area after the rituals.<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Waq5LiVaqqgWCwCVSYV2rndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zF7bf8Hv2mk/TmCW54U2HTI/AAAAAAAACB4/w2qZ0bi0RWw/s400/IMG_0027.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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We finally got to eat at 4 p.m. The food was pure veg, which means no onion and no garlic, but at the same time, was richer because of the use of ghee (clarified butter).<br />
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I love this part of Indian work culture, because it's so different from Western ways. Imagine sitting down with your coworkers to perform a traditional ritual to bless your office space, books, computers, etc.!<br />
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One last picture: a colleague's son, dressed in traditional Oriya garments of his very own size! So cute!<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3rfnDtGw22JzD_MlP1KD43dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3MEHdyrH4qs/TmCW8v6732I/AAAAAAAACB8/B7bXUVrzJnI/s400/IMG_0034.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a>Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-46188921292535687682011-08-30T15:46:00.001+05:302011-09-15T13:12:19.435+05:30My Latest Project<p><b>Corey writes</b></p>
<p>I've just passed a milestone in the "main" project I've been working on during the second year of my placement. But before I get into the details, let me give you some background. The project is called SAMADHAN: Citizen’s Action for Governance and the elevator pitch for the project is:</p><blockquote>Citizens can file complaints with their local government by calling a toll-free number, by sending an SMS, by visiting the government office in person or through one of our “lead volunteers”. Once the complaint is registered, the government will act to resolve the complaint quickly. The interesting part is that the data about the numbers and types of complaints and the actions taken by the government are open to the public. This means that the district magistrate, the press or local NGOs can help motivate departments that aren’t solving problems. It also means that departments that <em>are</em> solving problems get some recognition.</blockquote>
<p>For example, if I lived in Koraput district and my well is broken, I can call up a toll free number and file a complaint. The complaint will be viewed by the government and they will fix my well. I'll get status messages on my mobile phone at every step of the way too. Finally, at the end of the month, SOVA can review the status of all the complaints in the district.</p>
<p>This project is being funded by the <a href="http://www.endpoverty2015.org/" target="__blank">United Nations Milennium Campaign</a> and is being implemented two NGOs: SOVA and <a href="http://samarthan.org/" target="__blank">Samarthan</a>. The website was programmed by <a href="http://tangere.in/" target="__blank">Tangere InfoTech</a>. It's been a good learning experience working as part of a loose team like this. The role I've been filling at SOVA has really been as project manager / technical guy. Like I was doing in the USA before coming here, I've been translating between the technical and non-technical people. I've been developing technical documentation and also just pushing the project along in Koraput.</p><p>About a month ago, we decided the project was ready for a "formal launch" event in the state capital. The purpose of doing a launch event there and not in Koraput was mainly publicity. If we launch the system in Koraput it will get covered by the Koraput papers. If we launch the system in Bhubaneswar and the Chief Minister comes, it will be in all the papers in the state. For our American readers, the Chief Minister is like the state Governor. He runs the state.</p><p>So we've spent the last month in a slowly building frenzy trying to squash bugs and clean up the website, developing documentation, and preparing to host a major event in a city that is 500 km away. However, this event really helped to solidify the team.</p><p>The launch was scheduled for 26 August and so we all arrived at the hotel/conference hall on the 25th. The final preparations were a little chaotic, especially since we decided to add a little drama to the launch by having an actual person with an actual problem call in from Koraput to make the inaugural complaint. It was very difficult figuring out how to patch the telephone system into the PA system.</p><p>In the end, the launch went off without a hitch. There was a good turnout of politicians, UN people, and the press. Here are some photos of the event (see if you can guess who the Chief Minister is).</p><p><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9oIebcOt18/Tlytzu_cLwI/AAAAAAAAANk/7PnyWUw-yig/s1600/DSC_0004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="267" width="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9oIebcOt18/Tlytzu_cLwI/AAAAAAAAANk/7PnyWUw-yig/s400/DSC_0004.JPG" /></a></p><p><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Iq-MDMDUqjY/Tlyt0BhWkBI/AAAAAAAAANs/ddq92EMuYRE/s1600/DSC_0030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="267" width="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Iq-MDMDUqjY/Tlyt0BhWkBI/AAAAAAAAANs/ddq92EMuYRE/s400/DSC_0030.JPG" /></a></p><p><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EWqNPKG6xPE/Tlyt0QUMZmI/AAAAAAAAAN0/N_AEOgc31jk/s1600/DSC_0048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="267" width="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EWqNPKG6xPE/Tlyt0QUMZmI/AAAAAAAAAN0/N_AEOgc31jk/s400/DSC_0048.JPG" /></a></p><p><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yrWNBoWE_04/Tlyt0p2UBDI/AAAAAAAAAN8/LHSwHGlsPKo/s1600/DSC_0080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="267" width="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yrWNBoWE_04/Tlyt0p2UBDI/AAAAAAAAAN8/LHSwHGlsPKo/s400/DSC_0080.JPG" /></a></p><p>You can see the website for the project in my district at <a href="http://koraput.samadhan.org.in" target="__blank">http://koraput.samadhan.org.in</a>. There are many other projects in India that use technology to connect people with their government, with varying degrees of success. If our project does succeed, I think it will be because of two things:<p><ol><li>We have the trust and interest of the local government.</li>
<li>We have the trust and awareness of the local citizens.</li>
</ol><p>There is no amount of slickness you can put in a website that will get these two things. It’s going to take a lot of hard work in the field and the political capital of an organisation like SOVA. Achieving one of these things without the other still means failure. It won’t be easy, but if we succeed, we will have created a whole lot of active citizens and hopefully in the process helped Koraput district.</p>
<p><b>Update 15 September 2011</b></p>
<p>Thanks to everyone who commented on this blog entry. I don't think I did a good job of communicating the reality of the project in the original post, so I want to make it clear that this project has not actually helped a single person to date. Myself and the other folks working on the project have put in a lot of work based on the assumption that this project will help people. But there are still a lot of big "ifs", and this project could easily end up in the pile with the majority of other projects like this that fail. I know this sounds negative but I feel like I've given the impression that this project is a success prematurely.</p>Corey Gronehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02128452841178617774noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-15124807012427178462011-08-25T16:10:00.000+05:302011-08-25T16:10:13.839+05:30Homeward Bound<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
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In 3 months, we’ll be sitting down to an amazing turkey dinner to celebrate Thanksgiving… with our families… in the U.S.! As we approach the end of our 2-year odyssey, we have a lot going on in our heads, from logistics planning to finishing stuff at work to trying to remain “in the moment” in India.<br />
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<b>Travel Plans</b><br />
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Our last day at our VSO placements in Koraput is somewhere around October 22. This date was chosen because our visas expire on October 27, so we can’t be in India after that. We don’t want to be starting new jobs until after the holidays, so we thought we’d take the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to travel for a month in Asia before traveling home!<br />
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The plans are just about finalized; we’re heading to Nepal for an 8-9 day trek up to a basecamp in the Himalayas. It’s not rigorous climbing or anything, just steady hiking with amazing views. Our friend Tim and his girlfriend did almost the exact trip; their blog entry about it is <a href="http://travelling-tim-on-tour.blogspot.com/2011/05/holiday-pt-2-kathmandu-and-himalayas.html">here</a>. From Nepal, we head to Thailand for just over 2 weeks. We fly into Bangkok and then immediately leave it to head to the beach at Ko Samet for 4 days (<a href="http://www.letsgo.com/1562-central_thailand-travel-guides-ko_samet-d">info</a> and <a href="http://www.molon.de/galleries/Thailand/KohSamet/">photos</a>). Then we head up to Chiang Mai to <a href="http://www.chiangmai1.com/buddy/3-days.shtml">traipse about in the jungle, ride bamboo rafts, and ride elephants</a>! After 3-4 days there, we make our way to the Northeast part of the country, where I will take part in a <a href="http://www.thailandhomestay.com/tour4.html">4 day silk-making class</a>, complete with finding the silkworms, feeding them mulberry leaves, spinning and dyeing the silk, and weaving a scarf! Corey will relax in the cute homestay and try not to show his jealousy of my experience! From Isan, we go back to Bangkok to catch our flight to Delhi-London-Chicago-Toledo. On our one day in Bangkok though, I’m running the <a href="http://www.bkkmarathon.com/eng/index.php">Bangkok Half Marathon</a>! Since Corey and I ran a big race in the hours before we left Pittsburgh, it seems to be an appropriate marker to say goodbye to Asia too!<br />
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We arrive in the Toledo airport at 5:30 p.m. on November 21, just in time for Thanksgiving!<br />
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<b>Status Check</b><br />
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With less than 2 months to go (21 completed) in Koraput, we are doing pretty darn good. We’re both fairly busy at work, but not so busy as to be frazzled and stressed. Socially, we’re not doing too much “chasing after cultural experiences” and we’re not feeling guilty about that at all. Our house, with the cool breeze flowing through the open windows, is a peaceful and comfortable place for us. It feels like “home”.<br />
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We’ve been talking a lot about “when we get back…” and doing a lot of logistics planning (finding an apartments, jobs, registering our car, etc.). But we’ve been careful not to let those conversations and plans override our appreciation of the last few months in India. Contrary to what some blogs we’ve read and friends have said, the frustrations of day-to-day life in India are not getting to us any more than usual. We’re looking forward to hot showers and high-speed Internet and wine and Western-style workplaces, but the lack of it doesn’t seem more pronounced like we were afraid of.<br />
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Our 2-year placement seems to have been about the right length for us -- in terms of work objectives, immersion in another culture, and being away from the U.S. and our families and friends. We're excited about returning to a relatively unexciting life in the U.S., but are still enjoying our days here in India.Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-82899129804473506832011-08-22T16:57:00.000+05:302011-08-22T16:57:22.870+05:30Crafting the Night Away<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
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Contrary to what you might think, we have <i>a lot</i> of free time here. That means that I've had the opportunity to do lots of crafting! This post is picture-heavy and will only interest some of this blog's audience, but for those of you who are interested, enjoy!<br />
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I brought a few cross-stitch kits with me to India, figuring (rightly) that they'd keep me busy for hundreds of hours while taking up very little space. <br />
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A 5"x7" Japanese girl. <i>For sale.</i><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tedCesPNfJUEUhHS7ABUqndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oS6WNd59dT8/TlIi6uSvs4I/AAAAAAAACAE/ey8mqgnc1kA/s400/P1070086.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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A hugely complicated Thomas Kinkade scene. At least 150 hours of work! <i>For sale.</i><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ixQfMv41ZSxjhAhD5qMizndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qF39II9cFJA/TlIjBloeQUI/AAAAAAAACAI/PMxkvi-Zsss/s400/P1070088.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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The first 4 of a set of 6 Christmas ornaments/hangings.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/B8ceRPV3HK6Ol79p4RVehndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iMSkHa3k0p0/TlIjGaoikNI/AAAAAAAACAM/d2OVWv5S2d4/s400/P1070090.JPG" height="301" width="400" /></a><br />
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This one was made for Corey's parents, another 100+ hour project! It was given to them last December when they visited and framed after they got home.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/VzmKwfHRTkm_uAgNdeU5OXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cbXPwNS5TV4/TlIhkkNfW7I/AAAAAAAAB-0/GILJW7UilTk/s400/P1020839edit.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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My favorite craft is knitting, but I didn't know what my access to yarn would be. I brought 1 big skein of mauve cotton yarn and a selection of knitting needles and hoped for the best. Much to my surprise, I found a craft shop in Koraput's main market!<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/cUbZIVoOrh6KX1F4Hsr9QHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CNwXpcdx0OQ/TXsv8o0J0gI/AAAAAAAABHE/pMiHguyjouA/s400/P1040486.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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The yarn available here isn't very good quality, but it's better than nothing. I've made a lot of random stuff from what I've found there.<br />
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Coasters. <i>For sale.</i> (This pattern is my own design, it's also <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wavy-cool-coasters">for sale on Ravelry</a>.)<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/e1HrGYFZSs6JAFDgC8DUjndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6ug84gNJ0pA/TlIhow2TvQI/AAAAAAAAB-4/R7XJRMhKVy8/s400/P1070013.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RZTOtVyURAPdHZgMn_BDN3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RwB-MZtBL8U/TlIhs94tIRI/AAAAAAAAB_A/Zr6cS7irIII/s400/P1070017.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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I made some dolls that are totally impractical but fun to make and cute to look at!<br />
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Daphne Dabble<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/S2_bpXl4qL19KZYT666uk3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9ljin9fG_7U/TlIhwWVYBOI/AAAAAAAAB_E/HONX4LV87lE/s400/P1070034.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sHNe51zSR8vqKJcK4fqy63dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y_cnNDAZuUA/TlIh00aVKaI/AAAAAAAAB_I/DTLtduzAdU8/s400/P1070039.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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Samuel the Shopkeeper (with incomplete veggie accessories...I got bored)<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/r7rKKflEZFPFyC4mB-3uGHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dubqz8ouiac/TlIh4qhaw7I/AAAAAAAAB_M/Iy7H3NAxhxE/s400/P1070043.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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Here they're joined by Ms. Mop-it-up, making a love triangle that only the dog notices because Daphne is too busy painting!<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rHDVlDLth57pFfv4GLIX0HdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rFPEN3MwDp8/TlIh8jzLkhI/AAAAAAAAB_Q/hOHmuf_7uN8/s400/P1070051.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
I embroidered this simple little bag for a camera or other small object.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/M13v3t4GQi_ePf-6yMRKEndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HaHScn-RJSM/TlIiDF6R2zI/AAAAAAAAB_U/f0VaV6AHL-c/s400/P1070059.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Color-coordinated lining!<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/cghZGliow969J2KJrloZGndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-64CKgWQijUw/TlIhiF0nVoI/AAAAAAAAB-w/MOduZuj6njU/s400/P1050357.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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More toys/ornaments/something... <i>For sale.</i><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LdQNIjHNUBjHViifd7da4ndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RM5dDukROAU/TlIiVRzG38I/AAAAAAAAB_k/VsIpDVeKglA/s400/P1070074.JPG" height="400" width="299" /></a><br />
<br />
Some fingerless gloves (that still need some decorative buttons). <i>For sale.</i><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Hr-l4_4k5lNgjD-689wKgHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8oCzi0NRsFE/TlIiczyme9I/AAAAAAAAB_s/SIF45cEZZqY/s400/P1070076.JPG" height="301" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/m6aRtAxtDm71dklUz-ItwXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N6zp5YES9FQ/TlIiX9B50ZI/AAAAAAAAB_o/Li1L1kaFzGI/s400/P1070075.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Not a great picture, but the sweater that I'm currently knitting. One more sleeve to go!<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7mX1S5MFM86XoYtZZ9XenHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-myZHLmrsO3E/TlI74VdsQbI/AAAAAAAACBI/JlRrAXLI7Bc/s400/IMG_0075.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
For my nephew who is due just 2 weeks before we get back to the U.S., itty bitty booties that look more modern/cute than most I've seen!<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/VqeDgmtSnosLWB-1OHZ_fXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-banL-rMlXX4/TlIjNVBReRI/AAAAAAAACAU/9GFekgi3TTA/s400/IMG_0106.JPG" height="299" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Also for the little dude.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xtbl144e0BHToCcVRL9nsXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WGozLtfX42w/TlIjQW7yvkI/AAAAAAAACAY/L5Nv77K8s2w/s400/IMG_0111.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
And for his big sister Maris, leg warmers to wear to her dance class!<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wwNM1I0xWj7vbdcSJXf5BXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7g71ZaoJAIE/TlIjUexsG4I/AAAAAAAACAc/1O05G3LDZR0/s400/IMG_0115.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
From the cotton yarn that I brought with me, I made two things.<br />
<br />
A shawl/scarf for me.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/FqwPVyRT0rVLzKQLgzlpIndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OV679OWX8zc/TlIixJHghUI/AAAAAAAAB_8/3ULi_cds9J8/s400/P1070082.JPG" height="400" width="299" /></a><br />
<br />
And fingerless gloves. <i>For sale.</i><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pIdWFh4edhxMKyHQ6o-Df3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g3Qo924mITs/TlIilZz1QqI/AAAAAAAAB_0/S3EtFmVJuGA/s400/P1070079.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WvrgqQNuPQ2WBZcZT6AgRXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xpSkei48Tqk/TlIif65QetI/AAAAAAAAB_w/W7jXyYVfRV4/s400/P1070078.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
For Christmas 2009 and 2010, Corey's parents bought me some gorgeous handspun yarn. I have 2 small skeins to use yet, but have made some cool stuff.<br />
<br />
A little shoulder bag. <i>For sale.</i><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3JyPc7H33U0xbzzpBH9b0XdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ABaV65UCsFQ/TlIiIEoiXjI/AAAAAAAAB_Y/oQwC9yx4HAQ/s400/P1070061.JPG" height="301" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9OSLOGQHIP0H0OVnAKfD5ndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AfAYKpJ8OU0/TlIiNoDfd9I/AAAAAAAAB_c/Mzw6ZBkeFCY/s400/P1070062.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
A pair of slippers that doesn't look <i>too</i> dorky.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Y0a3AnEodkCMRHPQsnB-F3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gbi3NOEFYpw/TlIi09w1WbI/AAAAAAAACAA/cK7ml9WSOvI/s400/P1070084.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
A wine sock to protect our precious bottles!<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rVH6kscL12KxLOFMGgELdndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TTCXju5izMQ/TlIjKiUFX1I/AAAAAAAACAQ/LGtDLKDXbgc/s400/P1070092.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
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A small rug of sorts to display figurines on a mantel.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/P_o-se6dC8q9u0Ti1C4X4HdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2dnFvNGu-3k/TlIiQzp1kNI/AAAAAAAAB_g/qdfQqxLX2ig/s400/P1070067.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WevUriFi6FwQmOd8HQVbwXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FtyhDEQS0os/TlIhglUac7I/AAAAAAAAB-o/-AcDfHJzd9E/s400/P1050344.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
That's about it. There are so many projects that I want to make, but we have limited space in our luggage. Only a few more months until I can go to a proper yarn store and make anything I want, without regard to size!Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-23092244162829841852011-08-16T14:58:00.000+05:302011-08-16T14:58:10.891+05:30It's Raining Dogs and Dogs!<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
Nothing much going on here lately, so here are some random tidbits from the past few weeks.<br />
<br />
<b>Dogs</b><br />
<br />
From <a href="http://sustainabledignity.blogspot.com/2010/05/this-ones-for-you-sophie.html">previous entries</a>, you'll know that Corey and I are "dog people". During the past 20 months in Koraput, we've slowly increased the number of dogs that we pet and have named. There's Sango, Floppy and Fugs at SOVA, who I don't see anymore. There's Pandu at SPREAD. There's Good Dog, Puppy Girl and Blacky at our house. We don't feed any of them very often, just leftovers (if they've gone bad) or bones sometimes.<br />
<br />
A few weeks ago, Pandu was acting lethargic and despondent. While petting him, I found a HUGE gash on the back of his neck, almost hidden because of his fur covering it, but a straight clean cut of about 2 inches, all the way down to the muscle. It seemed to have come from a workman's shovel/hoe and not from another dog. Ordinarily, I successfully ignore the dogs' ailments, since scrapes and limping and skin diseases are just part of being a wild dog in India. This time, though, I felt the need and ability to do something, since I really believed that the alternative was death for Pandu and I didn't want to find his cold body outside the office one day. He was warm to the touch, so obviously had a fever from infection already.<br />
<br />
The next day was a Sunday, but I went to the office on my day off to check on him. I brought a can of processed chicken meat that we were not interested in eating and a bottle of general antibiotics that I have for us (ciprofloxacin). I explained to the office boy that the antibiotics would fight the infection and that was the only way that Pandu would live. The office boy lives at the SPREAD office and is buddies with Pandu, so he was worried, too. Anyway, long story short, Pandu took antibiotics for 5 days (1/2 tab twice a day) and was all better. After his fever went away, his wound healed well. Now he acts like is indebted to me for saving his life! Or maybe he just wants some more processed chicken-in-a-can!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GYgo_WOevmr5wpLlAR8Rm3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WS8zPYuDTaQ/TkosvHYaccI/AAAAAAAAB9w/k_p2K_OCgXg/s400/pandu.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
As an exception to Indian norm, Pandu is allowed to come inside the office and lay on a mat just inside the door <i>if</i> it's raining. He comes in and lays quietly while it's raining and then, immediately after it stops, he moves himself to the doorstoop to continue his nap! So cute!<br />
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The other dog story from the past few weeks is that the two main dogs from our neighborhood, Puppy Girl and Blacky, have gone beyond their territory a few times each to walk with me <i>all the way to work!</i> The first few times they did this, I was really nervous for them, since they had to run through packs of snarling dogs in foreign territories. <br />
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This picture was taken the first time Puppy Girl came with me to work. <br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/okmSbXj_jsyq1PHQapD803dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Bni-Pvkm8vw/TkosspDivuI/AAAAAAAAB9s/jyEMzFueYZc/s400/DSC02357.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
She was so scared that she tried to come into the office with me, but then just laid on the office stoop and whined for a few hours until a co-workers shooed her away. After she left the office area, I didn't see her until 2 days later when she was beat up and limping! I think she didn't know her way home and got in trouble with the older, meaner dogs. <br />
<br />
Now she's come with me partway or all the way to the office a few more times and she's bigger and smarter. I always find her back at home after my day at the office.<br />
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A funny thing, though, is that Puppy Girl and Blacky aren't the only ones "escorting" me to work. Two times now, I've had groups of dogs (4 the first time, 3 the second time) following me most of the way! It must be a hilarious site to see the tall foreigner with 3 or 4 dogs right at her heels!<br />
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word has gotten around in the doggy circles that we are "friendly folk". There are 4-6 dogs around our house that we've never touched or fed that get up when we leave our house and start wagging their tails! <br />
<br />
<b>Rainy Season</b><br />
<br />
You might recall from last year's <a href="http://sustainabledignity.blogspot.com/2010/08/rainy-season.html">blog entry</a> that rainy season hits Koraput pretty hard. We were dreading the months of non-stop rain this year. However, it's been a mild season and the rain is much less than last year. It does rain on most days, but even then it's often in the evening, so I've only had to walk to/from work in rain that was more than a drizzle a few times. Unfortunately, the lack of rainfall has not led to diminished mold and mildew problems in the house. We don't have water seepage problems like many buildings in Koraput, but some condition in our house is such that almost any clothing/material/cushion that's not hanging and allowed to move around a bit starts to smell like mildew and sometimes even get white fuzzy mold growing on it. To get rid of the mildew smell, what works best is to wait for a day that's relatively sunny and put everything outside to let the sun kill the smell. <br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Fg09ejjLJDQBVafLoFzNIHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_uZEz8rcT6w/Tkos2VsJ09I/AAAAAAAAB94/Oq2TTCxpEUs/s400/IMG_0033.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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As for the clothes, we don't have the space to hang everything or the inclination to rotate everything from shelves to hangers in some planned method. So we end up with random pieces that are either smelly or actually have white fuzz on them.<br />
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Like this hat!<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xk1j9u7WHefk_ZTj12wVs3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uWIztjVIkvc/TkosxSOl1vI/AAAAAAAAB90/bLBGgG3Xwkc/s400/IMG_0032.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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We soak those clothes in boiling water with a dash of bleach. Seems to work!Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-17164902259448296152011-08-10T17:09:00.000+05:302011-08-10T17:09:32.350+05:30Attitudes and Experiences<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
The idea that I want to write about today is difficult to put down in words but I'll try my best, since it's something I've been thinking about a lot over the past few days. The basic thought is that our experience here has been enriched because we've <i>chosen</i> to have such open minds and are on a constant look-out for new and different experiences. Continuing to embrace these attitudes could result in fuller lives after we return to the U.S. as well. Let me explain with examples:<br />
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<b>Suspending Judgement</b><br />
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Day in and day out, we interact with coworkers, neighbors and shopkeepers. Countless times, they've done something or said something that initially seems weird or wrong or inappropriate. Whether it's describing a Hindu tradition, treating women as inferior, or cautioning against eating yogurt at night, we have a negative reaction for only one tiny second before telling ourselves, "Well, it's a different culture" or "That's how this person was raised, how can I blame them?" Because the people that we're talking to are from a culture/religion/background that is so different from our own, they get a free pass from our judgement. In so many cases, it's impossible to really compare aspects of the U.S. and India, so we've learned to not do that and just say to ourselves, "It's not wrong, it's different."<br />
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What I've been thinking is...why can't we take that same open-minded attitude and apply it to our outlook in the U.S.? When someone is acting uncouth or is espousing contrary viewpoints or maybe their actions point to their lack of education/upbringing, we should remind ourselves that we are each a product of our parents and our culture. Our actions and personalities are our own only to a limited extent. Sure, there are actions that really are inexcusable (both in India and in the U.S.), but I'd like to import my ability to suspend judgement of others to the U.S.<br />
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<b>Beauty Beauty Everywhere</b><br />
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I have my camera with me almost all the time and am trying to learn to have more of a photographer's eye. Combined with the fact that I do live in a beautiful city, it means that I find the smallest and most innocuous things that strike my eye. My twice-daily walk through the paddy fields never fails to make me smile. Women in saris gracefully carrying jars of water on their heads and children on their hips is a simple, yet stunning visage. Puppies...enough said. <br />
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Who's cuter?<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GDbvfiCmpcvkX71PXDMoOndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yBeTqb-zBU0/TkJrWnOCcvI/AAAAAAAAB8k/wdrqZQpkp88/s400/India_0288.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br />
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A cool-looking moth that we found on the office wall.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xXNSr6m9yy9w70RAyrtMZXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OaKsNbOR9oM/TkJrcz935vI/AAAAAAAAB8o/hDuYn6FXr-M/s400/P1030785.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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Beyond <i>visual</i> stimuli, I use the excuse "Who knows when I'll be back in India?" to appreciate the little things, like saying hi to the sweet old man who owns a little shop near the SPREAD office, a houseful of open windows to fill the rooms with bright sunshine, weaving between cows in the streets on my way to work or the market.<br />
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The view from our house.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/U_QRkiG-34_bG7VRWBGBBndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Bp4od3J8jxc/TkJrS1NpJ6I/AAAAAAAAB8g/uwtGGtkPywE/s400/India_0161.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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Enjoying the breeze, the peace, and the view from SOVA's roof.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dJKm-YJHEGdxz_pKKMxF-HdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RHy62QMu_HE/TkJr6jyhs2I/AAAAAAAAB84/YbNNjQj255U/s400/P1040037.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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At times when I have that feeling wash over me of, "Wow, I'm really fortunate to be here in this place," it's not actually in response to something uniquely Indian. But the fact that I'm constantly on the lookout for things to cherish and remember means that I find joy in some things that I could find in the U.S. as well. For instance, as I've walked to work in the past few days, I've thought about how beautiful and peaceful some stretches of Pittsburgh are and how I should take greater advantage of them; specifically, I think about cutting through Schenley Park or Frick Park in Pittsburgh to walk to the grocery store on a fall day or to a coffee shop to spend time with an old friend. After I return to the U.S., I want to be more cognizant of the beauty that's all around me. <br />
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<b>New and Different</b><br />
<br />
Part of our time here as been the inevitable experience of many new and different things -- foods, festivals, friendships, and more. We've also put quite a bit of effort into specifically seeking out these experiences. Attempting to cook with a new vegetable, following the crowds to the location of a Hindu celebration, spending time at friends' homes even if it's kind of awkward, joining in the tribal dances or marriage processions even though the cameras come out and we know we look stupid. Taking part in these activities has provided some fantastic memories (and even better photos)!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jPu0t1XKw9_Aql4szOYbjndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1GUWozg1fDs/TkJrB8lJuBI/AAAAAAAAB8c/Y3aGSpobF1M/s400/India_0148.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/14IjbuIJXrai9o4h_alMl3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XZakC6JeDQ0/TbUmxtqkemI/AAAAAAAABjs/1gBTGnLAPgk/s400/P1030093-817437952-O.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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Pittsburgh is fortunate to have a large multi-cultural feel to it. Throughout the year, there are fairs and events sponsored by different cultural groups--Polish, Indian, Chinese, German, and many more. And there are A LOT of restaurants serving dozens of ethnic cuisines. We've always had an interest in finding authentic ethnic restaurants and have attended our share of cultural events, but I'd like to be more grateful for those opportunities in the future. With a small shift in attitude, it really can feel like an adventure in another culture by just talking to an immigrant at an event or digging a little deeper to understand the culture presented at some festival or restaurant.<br />
<br />
My point is that our experience of the world around us has a lot more to do with our outlook and attitude than with the stimuli themselves. Take some time in the next few days and try to see your world a little differently -- I'm sure you can find something beautiful and new!Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-40136765589478249602011-08-04T15:29:00.000+05:302011-08-04T15:29:08.694+05:30Smelhi Delhi<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
Last week, Corey and I were both in Delhi for 4 days to attend a VSO meeting. Here is a smattering of thoughts about the trip.<br />
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<b>Train Travel</b><br />
<br />
This was my first trip back to Delhi since our month-long orientation in November 2009. I've avoided going a few times because of the travel time there and back. To get there, we had to take a 4-hour train to another part of Orissa, stay overnight there, then take a 28-hour train to Agra where the Taj Mahal is, then take a 2-hour train to Delhi. The travel itself isn't so bad, since you're sitting on padded air-conditioned benches and can lay down, use your laptop (there are outlets), buy all kinds of food from the vendors coming through the carriages. It's just the length of time that's difficult to deal with.<br />
<br />
For the 32-hour train on the way back, we were put on a waitlist when purchasing the tickets. This is normal and has never been a problem in the past, since people cancel up until the last day and there are reserved seats released at the last minute. However, this time we never made it off the waitlist! Just before the train left Delhi, Corey managed to get a refund for our original tickets in the air-conditioned class and purchase the last remaining ticket for sleeper class (the non a/c cheaper and fuller carriages that we usually don't consider for long trips). After getting on the train, the ticket checker fined us because only one of us had a ticket and then later told us that the one ticket we did have was fraudulent! We spent the first 7-8 hours trying to be calm and nonchalant hanging out with 10 other people in a group of 8 bunks, but we were both dreading either sleeping on the floor with the rats and cockroaches and mud or possibly sharing one 6 foot by 2 foot bunk for the night. Eventually, Corey talked with the ticket checker and we were given 2 bunks that would be free for the night. Relief... After that, the trip was fine, we slept well, and the train emptied out significantly for the second day. But the stress of not really understanding where we were allowed to sit and whose seat we were actually sitting in illegally and thinking about a long, sleepless night with nowhere to sleep was too much!<br />
<br />
<b>VolComm</b><br />
<br />
The purpose of our trip to Delhi was to attend a Volunteer Committee meeting. I am the chair of the 4-member committee that works with the VSO India office to address any issues the volunteeers are having and try to improve the whole volunteer experience, increase the impact we're having, etc. It's an interesting committee to lead because 1) it's pretty much all on-line since the members are all over the country, so there's a lot of email coordination and follow-up which can be a challenge; 2) it's a unique opportunity to be invited to critique the activities and processes of the VSO India office (I can't say I've ever been able to tell previous "bosses" what I think they should change and how!). As volunteers being paid only a living stipend, we're invested in doing what we can to make the experience as fulfilling as possible, so we're invited to be an integral part of deciding how to make the whole program better; making appropriate use of this permission is sometimes tricky, since we don't want to tell the VSO India staff how to do their jobs or be confrontational.<br />
<br />
The 4 members of the committee (plus Corey and another volunteer, who have been working on some things with the VSO India office) met for 3 full days. We ended up 1) developing a monthly progress report that the volunteers would fill out, to help the NGO and the volunteer understand each other's expectations and problems better and earlier; 2) recommending changes to the placement description template that is basically the "job announcement" that we see when we're offered the placement, with info about duties, the NGO, and the location; 3) a few other simple solutions to problems of losing knowledge when there's a gap between 2 volunteers in an NGO and building the confidence of volunteers when they arrive in placement and have a lot of logistics to arrange in a culture that they're new to. All in all, it was a very productive meeting.<br />
<br />
<b>Other Volunteers</b><br />
<br />
Another benefit to the visit was the chance to see some of the other volunteers that I know and meet some that I don't know. Out of the 50-60 volunteers that were here when we arrived 21 months ago, only 6 are still here! Placements end, new groups come, the number of volunteers is decreasing due to funding changes...all resulting in the fact that I hardly know any volunteers now, except a few through email. I scheduled this meeting at the same time as the in-country orientation for a new group of volunteers, so counting the 5 other volunteers in the meeting, the 4 new volunteers, and the handful of current Delhi volunteers that I saw at a party at the VSO India office, I interacted with about 15 current volunteers and the program staff that I haven't seen since 2009, which was great and made me feel less disconnected to the whole group.<br />
<br />
<b>American-esque Experiences</b><br />
<br />
Other than the Volunteer Committee meeting, I had a short list of things that I wanted to do in Delhi, mostly involving American food and typical metropolitan experiences. With a group of 9 volunteers, we went for happy hour at a casual bar (something not possible in Koraput) followed by dinner at a Thai restaurant. It was nice to just be in that environment of ordering drinks, relating to people from a Western culture, and chilling out for a few hours without a rush to finish dinner. <br />
<br />
Friday was our free day, added on to the trip to make time for errands and such. The day started off with a trip to the dentist for me, just for a cleaning. I wanted to take advantage of VSO's benefit of paying for a dental visit after 1 year of service and wasn't about to consider visiting a dentist in Koraput! Just like Corey's visit to a different Delhi dentist in December, this was exactly the same as in the U.S. -- same look to the office, same routines (albeit a little rougher and completed by the dentist herself and not a hygienist). Cheaper though, the equivalent of about 40 USD. Lunch was cheeseburgers at Cafe Oz! So delicious, exactly what I wanted. The restaurant was casual and simple, but the service was more Western-style, with the same pace and little things like checking whether we liked our food and if we needed anything else. About half of the patrons there were foreigners; it was just such a shock to see places crowded with White faces and to not get the stares that we've become accustomed to in Koraput. After lunch, we headed out to a mall! I generally hate malls and was not interested in any stores in particular, but more the environment in general. It was nice to stroll around in the air-conditioning, check out the Apple store (well, for Corey anyway), and forget about the pollution and poverty just outside the doors. We ended up going to a movie (popcorn! English! quiet and not smelly!) and then getting pizza for dinner from Domino's! An excellent day of non-Indian fun.<br />
<br />
It was interesting to see how my perspective of a big crazy city has changed since being there last time. Also, I doubt I'll be back in Delhi before our placement is finished, so it was nice to see the program office staff again and to take a trip back to "where it all began". We even stayed in the same hostel as we did during training, it was like deja vu!Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-19343704434180150822011-08-01T21:15:00.000+05:302011-08-01T21:15:22.998+05:30The Taj Mahal<p><b>Corey writes:</b></p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/P_JeEAzVsYWK_H2xgqLnNHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6EwgOMLYLYw/TjZdD8gHegI/AAAAAAAAB7Y/Kj7-qv6vgkE/s400/IMG_0154%252520-%252520Copy.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></p>
<p>Gina and I have been looking for an opportunity to tick off a big box on our “Things to do in India” list: see the Taj Mahal. It’s cliche and touristy but we passed up the opportunity when we were in Delhi at the beginning of our placements and have been watching the months go by. We figured that if we lived in India for two years and never saw the Taj Mahal we’d never live it down. The opportunity finally came again last week when Gina and I traveled to Delhi for a VSO workshop.</p>
<p>We arrived at the Agra train station around 1:30 in the afternoon and were able to stash all our bags at the “coat check” in the station for a small fee. This is an Indian railways pro-tip. We then stopped in to the tourist info centre there in the station and got a lot of great information about the correct rickshaw fair to the Taj as well as a map. The Agra station was one of the most tourist-friendly stations I’ve seen in India. I was really glad to be prepared with some information when we stepped out of the station and were hailed by about 20 rickshaw drivers who all proceeded to take part in the negotiation between us and one driver. This was a little hectic for us, which means it’s got to be overwhelming for most foreigners hoping to tour Agra.</p>
<p>Once the negotiations were over the driver took us to a very tasty spot for lunch and then on to the Taj. “Which gate?” he asked. “Hmmm” we thought as we grabbed the tourist map. It turns out there are three different gates to the Taj Mahal. The most popular one is the western gate. As our guide later explained, the southern gate was used by the workers building the monument and still has a market and housing from those days. The eastern gate is used by VIPs like President Obama.</p>
<p>We got out of the rickshaw at the western gate and were immediately assaulted by touts and potential guides. Gina and I were prepared for this and had agreed ahead of time that we did want to hire a guide and the maximum price we wanted to spend on one. This kind of preparation, even though it takes 5 minutes, really saves you a lot of stress when you’re in the moment. We said “no” many times to many different guides until there was only one left matching us step for step towards the entrance. This guy had pretty good English and was using all his tricks to get us, mostly by saying ridiculous things like “bee’s knees”, “cat’s pyjamas”, “The Big Apple”, and “supercalifragilisticexpialidocious”. He actually said all of those things. It made us laugh, which of course is an in for any salesman. After about five minutes of negotiating we got him down to our pre-agreed price.</p>
<p>After forking over Rs 750 each (a 3,750% increase over the Indian national price) we were whisked into the forecourt area and the entrance. Even from the outside the architecture is stunning, and the architects brilliantly force everyone through a gate that only reveals the Taj Mahal itself at the last minute and in full. The only thing I can compare it to is coming through one of the tunnels and being hit by the skyscrapers and bright lights of downtown Pittsburgh.</p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xvcSNg8wIha6p6L1NEJoj3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LzMLjV51Lkg/TjZbmVqr1yI/AAAAAAAAB6A/AlFnlojEPl8/s400/IMG_0148.JPG" height="301" width="400" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/goHAtugHAG90LlBKNJ60KXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h4Dj0e5OJ9w/TjZbryN_JHI/AAAAAAAAB6E/pbu45QgPNAg/s400/IMG_0149.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zS61CiHul3GGkt7ZrKulSXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5Br30ZF74cE/TjZdApBa6UI/AAAAAAAAB7U/Iuuxph-Pvxo/s400/IMG_0181.JPG" height="400" width="299" /></a></p>
<p>We then proceeded through the gate to a marble platform that provides the perfect perspective of the Taj. This is *the* picture spot and our guide really earned his keep here by pushing others out of the way and making room for us. One interesting bit we learned here is that the four minarets are actually leaning outwards slightly (like the Tower of Pisa). This makes all four visible at once and it’s also insurance in case of disaster. If an earthquake happens and the bases collapse, the minarets will fall outwards.</p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/aWzy3d3pxdUVF2FlQsN_8XdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JhfpHkAQaNs/TjZb1cR12YI/AAAAAAAAB6M/PgUdXuBrFdo/s400/IMG_0153.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5ULE_Jdxk8tan3gMQsiu9XdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lrDelRaFx_A/TjZczlylYrI/AAAAAAAAB7I/JXSNtMTupas/s400/IMG_0173.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qlpcNtwPT_91y6FzOkKEO3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5iY5KSDnjwU/TjZcDcLMIPI/AAAAAAAAB6c/BTD83R6LP48/s400/IMG_0161.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></p>
<p>We then approached the mausoleum and our guide started point out interesting things and giving us information. For example, the black patterns on the walls (inside and outside) are inscriptions from the Koran. For anyone who wants to know more about the Taj you can take this opportunity to <a href=“http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taj_Mahal”>read up on Wikipedia.</a></p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yYatZA0y9Wq44jv3NiI71ndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-x4kk1DN7peU/TjZc8VaevFI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/wPPEAXh7Lik/s400/IMG_0180.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></p>
<p>Then Aasif (the guide) took us inside the mausoleum to show us some of the interesting stones inlaid into the marble. There are stones from all over the world, including a dark orange stone that would glow when light hit it. The guide brought a little pen light to show this to us. It was a really cool effect especially because the marble was also a little translucent.</p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ze5zd1Ve0lV1lZGd-QAREHdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4QnGQRoKiAw/TjZc2xjyuuI/AAAAAAAAB7M/W2uGRDMhaZA/s400/IMG_0175.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/u6D_cPH36GA7qfCnIHuIFXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DH0S5EZRHFA/TjZchIk_2lI/AAAAAAAAB68/dp8QuEi2hqE/s400/IMG_0170.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wp9svIEmAD5aNsBM4S0wXXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gbafYY6OcUY/TjZccJRY1KI/AAAAAAAAB60/nBEObL_fBNc/s400/IMG_0168.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br /><em>It was pretty dark inside the Taj, but Gina’s new camera still took an awesome picture. I still can’t believe this was a low-light shot.</em></p>
<p>At the heart of the Taj Mahal are the tombs of Shah Jahan and his third wife. Everything in the entire Taj Mahal site is symmetrical, including the gardens outside and the two buildings on either side. However, Shah Jahan’s tomb throws the whole thing off. It’s next to his wife’s tomb, left of centre. Why? Apparently the Shah planned to be buried in an identical site directly across the Yamuna river from the Taj Mahal. This building was supposed to be in all black stone (symmetrical to the Taj’s white), but instead the king ended up next to his beloved for all eternity. More romantic, don’t you think?</p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/O6moFZE6KV5J1SRlpoNW4HdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zaG5SNGZmjc/TjZcl2Z2qeI/AAAAAAAAB7A/e90k-rCnFgo/s400/IMG_0172.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></p>
<p>Gina and I left the building and rested for an hour on a bench in one of the gardens outside, just watching people. We took stock of the experience and both came to the same conclusion: the Taj Mahal is beautiful and a marvel of human ingenuity. It’s a national treasure. But for us, it would not be worth flying to India to see. We didn’t build it up very much in our minds, and we were glad we didn’t. It was not a life-changing experience. We’re just not really temple, monument, historic site kind of people. We enjoy them, and we’ll go if it’s convenient, but that’s just us.</p>Corey Gronehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02128452841178617774noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-60104600357230506552011-07-27T16:45:00.000+05:302011-07-27T16:45:48.524+05:30Green Gina (and Corey)<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
In thinking about how my time in India has changed me, one significant change that comes to mind is a whole-hearted embrace of some environmentalist ideals.<br />
<p>Why?<br />
<ol><li>In India, there's trash everywhere. Towns like Koraput don't have landfills or garbage collectors, so the garbage for each neighborhood gets piled up in empty lots or strewn out of windows until it's eaten by cows and dogs and burned periodically. It's hard to see all that refuse every day and not give a think about how you can reduce your contribution to it. <br />
<li>Basic commodities like water and electricity are a lot harder to get here. If the water level is low or too many neighbors are running their water pumps or there's no electricity, we can't get water from our well up to the tank on the roof and then have a water shortage. At those times, we have to really think hard about how to use the water that we have stored in buckets around the house. Also, using only 6-8 gallons of water to handwash an entire load of laundry or 3-4 gallons to take an extra-long bucket bath made me start to feel guilty about the HUGE amount of water used for showers and washing machines in the U.S.</ol></p><p>Before coming to India, I was fairly environmentally-conscious, but most environmental considerations were made only if there was also a benefit of saving money, being healthier, or saving time. Now though, I'd say that thoughts about how to be kind to the environment top the list of considerations.</p><p>A few major changes that Corey and I have talked about making: <ol><li><i>No more bottled water</i> - Even at work meetings or for traveling, we'd both like to try extra-hard to not consume bottles of water. Our reusable water bottles with totally drinkable tap water will be making the rounds with us when at all possible.<br />
<li><i>No more paper towels or napkins</i> - Having not had the opportunity to use paper towels or napkins in the past 20 months, we realized that it's completely possible to replace disposable paper towels with reusable/washable cloths.<br />
<li><i>Drastically less Kleenex and toilet paper</i> - Using handkerchiefs instead of loads of Kleenex here is a necessity, not a choice. But realizing the amount of paper that we've saved from the trash heaps makes us not want to return to using tissues. It's the same with toilet paper; I won't go into the details, but there are completely sanitary and non-gross ways to go without toilet paper, at least for #1! Enough said...<br />
<li><i>No more paper/styrofoam plates or containers</i> - We ate off of styrofoam plates at a party at my office about 2 months ago. Afterwards, the plates and bowls were tossed outside, where they blew around in the wind and got stuck in bushes, where they still sit. A set of plastic/metal picnic plates and silverware isn't really THAT hard to wash, is it? And if we go to a restaurant, what's so hard about bringing a reusable container in anticipation of the leftovers?<br />
<li><i>Line dry some clothes</i> - We haven't even SEEN a clothes dryer for 20 months. At times, like right now in rainy season, we really miss it. Most of the time though, it feels great to hang the clothes outside for a few hours and know that you're not using any unnecessary electricity.<br />
<li><i>Using grey water where possible</i> - The water used to wash our clothes sits in buckets in our bathroom until we need to flush the toilet. Just a few big cupfuls of water poured down the squat toilet is all that's needed to "flush". We rarely have to use any clean water in the toilet! Along with this, the squat style of toilet doesn't need to actually flush since the pipe just flows out of the toilet to the river, so it does feel nice to not be using gallons and gallons of water just for one flush. I don't know how we'll incorporate the use of grey water in the U.S., but we'll keep an eye out for possibilities.</ol></p><p>Some of these changes will save money as well as the environment. None of them are time-saving, unless you count that there will be fewer trips to the trash can! All of them are actions that we've decided to personally adopt as a way of appreciating the environment.</p>Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-75293615893859149172011-07-20T15:52:00.000+05:302011-07-20T15:52:13.926+05:30Shame on You, Funders<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
Frustration has been building regarding this issue and it's time for a rant about it. I'll try to be sensitive and honest at the same time, as usual, but I apologize in advance to any that I offend. The idea that has been keeping me up at night when I allow myself to think about it too much is this: funders expect very little from the NGOs that they fund and the result is a far lower level of impact than is possible.<br />
<br />
For many Indian NGOs, the situation is this:<br />
<ul><li>the NGOs are funded by various international or national agencies (e.g. WorldVision, Save the Children, CARE)<br />
<li>these funders provide money for specific activities (e.g. training sessions, running a residential school, providing goats for poor villagers) or sometimes for a general aim (e.g. raising awareness about government programs, increased possession of land titles, improved quality of education at the government primary schools)<br />
<li>the NGOs complete the activities and report the results to the funders based on the funders' requirements (e.g. quarterly or semi-annual reports, specific templates requesting numbers data, stories of success and statements about change)<br />
<li>the NGO submit the reports on time and with no red flags regarding misuse of funds or lack of action and the funder renews the project for another 2-4 years<br />
</ul><p>After partially understanding this system and reading some general analyses of international development, I thought that potential problems with this system were:</p><ul><li>the funders expect very specific data regarding the impact (i.e. how the NGO's activities had changed people's lives for the better), which is difficult because a) long-term outcomes sometimes aren't evident until years after the activities take place and b) activities completed are much easier to measure than the change resulting from those activities<br />
<li>the funders templates for reporting relied on development models called logistical frameworks or log-frames that are difficult to truly understand and apply to the work at hand</ul>
<p>However, now after working with and observing the front-line level of international development (meaning the field workers who actually interact with the villagers and their managers who compile the data and write reports), I've come to a far different and upsetting conclusion -- funders expect very little from the NGOs that they fund and the result is a far lower level of impact than is possible. The funders don't actually seem to care if the reports are well-done, capturing impact and displaying an understanding of why the activities make sense. My reading lately has discussed funders' increased focus on evaluation and impact, but I don't see it. Almost all of the reports that I've seen over the past 20 months do not really convey how people's lives are better as result of the NGO's work. This lack of accountability for the NGO has drastic consequences:</p><ul><li>the NGO staff have no incentive to think about the impact of their activities; they just keep doing what they've been doing for years and assuming that the villagers will have better lives because of their work<br />
<li>the NGO staff have no incentive to think about whether X or Y activity makes the MOST sense, given the cost and given the expected impact<br />
<li>the NGO has no reason to work extra-hard to reach MORE beneficiaries; there are rarely expectations regarding specific numbers/goals (e.g. attending 70 village-level meetings per quarter, helping villagers to fill out 100 applications for new pensions per year)<br />
<li>there is never (that I have seen or can imagine) an overall evaluation of the work the NGO is doing in particular villages, asking how the residents' lives have improved because of X activities over Y time period costing Z money</ul>
Examples of the statements that are in NGO's reports are:
<ul><li>28 villages were sensitized on their rights to food<br />
<li>55 village women's committees met monthly and discussed things like drinking water and land rights<br />
<li>community tracking of PDS (subsidized food program) is going on in all 75 villages<br />
<li>20 people attended the national convention on Right to Education</ul>
I would expect that a funder would react to these statements with obvious questions:
<ul><li>how many people were "sensitized" on food rights and how can you measure their increased understanding? what will/did they do with this new knowledge?<br />
<li>what changes have resulted from the formation of women's committees in the villages? do the committee members feel more confident as part of the committee? are there any unforeseen negative consequences from an approach focussing on forming MANY committees?<br />
<li>what information was gained from the tracking of PDS? how was this information used to affect change? what was the NGO's role?<br />
<li>what was the perceived benefit of the attendees to this convention? is this the MOST effective way to spend that amount of money?</ul>
<p>It's easy to come down hard on the Indian NGOs. "Why don't they care more about the people they're serving?" "Why don't they want to do AS MUCH as they can to help AS MANY people as possible?" It's not that simple, though.</p><ul><li>The NGO staff at the bottom, the field workers (and even the project managers compiling the reports) get paid a tiny amount, barely enough to support a small family. Why should they provide anything but the bare minimum?<br />
<li>NGO management is more often trained in development concepts and not leadership or personnel management concepts. It's difficult to expect them to know how to motivate their 50 staff working on their own out in the field.<br />
<li>Low-quality reports have been accepted without question for years, so why should NGOs work to improve them?<br />
<li>I'm hesitant to say this, but most Indians that I've met here in rural India do have a deficiency when it comes to analytical skills and critical thinking. The Indian education methodology doesn't encourage creativity or problem-solving, but focuses on rote memorization and knowledge of facts. So project managers, even with a degree in development studies or something similiar, often have difficulty thinking about the IMPACT of activities that their project completes, not too mention how to measure that.</ul>
<p>So there you have it. I can't sleep because even my realist ideas of development were too optimisic. I think many Indian NGOs, including the 2 that I've worked with, ARE doing good work. But I don't think they're considering whether the activities that they've been doing for more than a decade truly make the MOST sense (or any sense) and I don't think the field staff are challenged to put their best effort into reaching as many people as possible.</p>
<p>I understand that development is hard. It's hard to do, it's hard to measure, it's hard to keep going. But there must be SOME way that the system can change to result in more impact and better use of funds. What that way is, I don't know. If you have any ideas, let me know, I could really use some encouragement...</p>Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-81853009854727200472011-07-14T16:44:00.003+05:302011-07-14T16:50:29.838+05:30Capacity-building<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
<br />
Multiple choice quiz: What does capacity-building mean?<br />
<ol><li>I have no clue, but I use it all the time because I work in development and using it makes me look smrt.<br />
<li>Something about teaching a man to fish instead of sharing your fish with him.<br />
<li>An ongoing, iterative process whereby individuals, groups, organizations and societies enhance their ability to identify and meet development challenges by coordinating their efforts through participatory facilitation.</ol><p>I think 3 might technically be right, but I can't quite get past the bullshit to see! 2 is a simplified version of the definition. Yes, capacity-building is the act of teaching someone HOW to do something rather than to do it for them. In the development world, this is like the Holy Grail of project planning.</p><p>It's been on my mind lately and I thought my ramblings might be of interest to some of this blog's audiences.</p><p>Capacity-building is one of VSO's key approaches to placements. We volunteers are trained to concentrate on transferring our skills to our coworkers in the partner NGO. This is why you don't see Corey and I out in the field very often; except for needing to understand the work that's done outside of the office (and wanting to be out there experienceing amazing stuff), there's not much that we can do out there to help our coworkers become better at their jobs. Though it's not as exciting, it's more useful for us to help in the office with report-writing skills, computer knowledge, and other things that affect future funding and the organization's ability to do and show their good work (and make the individuals themselves better development workers, for any future NGO they work at).</p><p>When you start work at an Indian NGO, however, it's difficult to get started building capacity immediately, telling people what they need to change and why. Especially as a younger person (both Corey and I) and as a woman (me, of course!), there's a relationship-formation process that has to happen before any foreigner can be critical and fill the role of "trainer". The key "ingredient" to speeding up this acceptance or even seeing it happen at all is the support shown to the volunteer by the NGO's director (called the "secretary" here). For my first year, the director did not publicly convey his belief in my skills, so capacity-building was next to impossible. When I left and started working at SPREAD instead, the director showed subtle signs of approval that the staff picked up on from the first day. It wasn't long before they started to come to me with questions.</p><p>Just yesterday was a small but meaningful victory for me. My coworker Prasant had asked me, on his own initiative, to develop a "documentation improvement plan" for him. I wrote some tips on how to ensure better English and better organization in his reports and how to include more relevant and useful data. When I sat with him yesterday to go over it in detail, he called in another staff member who is at an equivalent position (project manager) and also submits English reports to funders. Ajaya came into my office and the three of us ended up having a full hour, almost uninterrupted impromptu report training! It felt great to know that they respected my knowledge and were taking the time to gain skills from me. Small wins here in India... </p><p>Here's a "dramatic reenactment" of me training Prasant. It was taking today and not yesterday, but that really is how things work; people just sit with me at my desk and we work on my laptop on reports. <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2OQaGef14rcRQqPkZrKcwndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RaggQfQradg/Th7KkuXYbvI/AAAAAAAAB5E/yZEJs95wVqQ/s400/IMG_0132.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></p><p>I'll mention that capacity-building is a "goal" for VSO volunteers, but that it's rarely possible to have a placement with 100% capacity-building activity. Usually there's a project or two that a volunteer does mostly indepently, like designing a website, developing templates, or developing a database to track information. These projects help to form the relationship that's necessary for capacity-building. They also fill a gap in the organization, because no one at the NGO has the skills to do it and hiring an external consultant it too expensive. And they provide long-time value for the organization.</p><p>What we volunteers try NOT to do too much of is provide direct service delivery, like writing proposal and reports (me) or fixing computers (Corey). Since we won't be around forever, we're supposed to train someone at the office to do it, connect the office with a capable service provider (i.e. computer repair shop), or just accept that the English or design might not be the same level that we could produce, but that's it's at least truly coming from the permanent staff.</p><p>The concept of capacity-building isn't that profound, but it's an idea that we keep in mind whenever we face a task. Is there a way to integrate some training in this task? What skills can I teach the people around me that will make them better at their jobs for years to come?</p>Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-82595174427533625792011-07-08T16:35:00.000+05:302011-07-08T16:35:09.393+05:30What Is America Like?<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
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Indians ask us about the U.S. pretty regularly. What is the climate like? Is there rice in America? America doesn't have poor people, right? Does everyone in America own a gun? What do American houses look like? Does everyone have a driver's license? Do you know Michael Jackson? (I didn't tell that kid that MJ was dead...) The stereotypes are usually based on what they've seen on TV.<br />
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A few months ago, though, I was faced with a really interesting situation. I was on a multi-day field visit with some SPREAD staff visiting a village to hear about their land rights work over the past few years. I had the rare chance to ask the 20 or so men a lot of questions about their work and their results, since I was in the de facto "reporter" position for SPREAD, gathering data for a document about land rights work. Due to that role and to me saying a few simple phrases in Oriya, I had built some rapport with them by the end of the hour long conversation (which of course was done by interpreter). The leader of the group then shyly asked the interpreter, "What is it like in her country?" <br />
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I realized the importance of my answer immediately. Not to tout my importance or anything, but this village knew NOTHING about the U.S. (no electricity means no TVs) except for the most general of stereotypes (Americans are rude, there is no poverty, they don't wear enough clothing), so my answer would probably be all they ever learned about my country. I wanted to tell them things that were interesting, but true, painted an accurate picture and maybe broke down some stereotypes. Since coming to India, I've realized more than ever how unfair it is to make generalizations about an entire large country. (I've also realized that I totally overthink EVERYTHING...oh well!)<br />
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What would you have said? How would you describe the U.S. in a few simple sentences?<br />
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Here's what I said:<br />
<ul><li>parents and married children don't live in the same house (showing a contrast to the joint families commonplace in India)<br />
<li>all marriages are love marriages (as opposed to the majority of marriages in India, which are arranged)<br />
<li>women often work outside of the home, even after they have babies<br />
<li>we eat many many different types of food--rice, curries, sandwiches, Chinese, pasta (trying to say that we eat rice but also a vast variety of foods, also knowing they would not understand the concepts of Italian, Mexican, or European food)<br />
<li>there is no caste, all are equal (maybe a bit idealistic, but a good statement to make to people constantly harrassed because of their caste/tribe)<br />
<li>not all are rich, there are people without homes and without enough food to eat<br />
<li>in the North, it is SO cold, even -15 or -20 [Celsius] (I've said this one to many Indians, it's guaranteed to get a shocked reaction and make them think that maybe America is less than perfect in just that one way)<br />
</ul>That's what I came up with on the spot. What's missing?Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-43132558153534242092011-07-04T14:43:00.000+05:302011-07-04T14:43:05.594+05:30Jagganath Visits His Auntie<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/d1VFE3_vSuzNh9eHFHj5kndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N7XppkGXNp0/ThF3B5VsTnI/AAAAAAAAB4Q/QZazvzr4IfY/s400/IMG_0080.JPG" height="225" width="400" /></a><br />
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Yesterday was a big holiday for Koraput. The main temple here honors the deity Jagganath and his big day is at this time of year. <br />
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Here he is with his brother and sister. Jaggy is the one with the black face.<br />
<a href="http://goo.gl/photos/6eK8" imageanchor="1" style="clear:right;margin-bottom:1em;margin-left:1em"><img border="0" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_dSkJlx_RfLs/TDx1QXDgY_I/AAAAAAAACHc/7aivuvAnXdA/s512/IMG_4853.JPG"></a><br />
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The festival is called <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rath_Yatra">Ratha Yatra</a> and symbolizes Jagganath (and his brother and sister) leaving their temple to visit their aunt's house, which is at another temple. More than 100,000 people witnessed the god's journey in Koraput.<br />
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Last year, it was raining hard, so we were only half-upset that we ended up hearing the wrong time for the celebration and missed it. This year, we decided we would participate no matter what.<br />
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On our way to lunch at a restaurant right by the Jagannath Temple, we saw groups of people lined up on the street. Not wanting to miss the excitement, we made our way to the densest group of people down the street about 300 yards from the temple. There was the cart that Lord Jagganath and his brother and sister would be carried to.<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UNL4XvVgsrmO3z9o5fRehndA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sjhlUU5o5sU/ThF3kT-dpLI/AAAAAAAAB4Y/6lEU7DLD7cA/s400/IMG_0085.JPG" height="400" width="299" /></a><br />
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While we waited, it started to rain a little, but not enough to call for our umbrellas, so no problem. I was excited to be able to use my new camera (thanks Corey!), especially since the display of color was especially amazing.<br />
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I think this is my favorite picture that I've taken so far to show the colors of India (along with the tribal feel of Koraput).<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oCKT_MiL-nhsMZnwEGBcLXdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--WZ7Y0Lv4y8/ThF3UI27hDI/AAAAAAAAB4U/nH2GZGUh7i4/s400/IMG_0084.JPG" height="301" width="400" /></a><br />
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After about 30 minutes, the first of the three gods arrived. With all the people, it was hard to see what was going on, but it was fun to see the excitement on the men's faces.<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ekRcQXviBRaLi0JQYO-w4XdA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4Na423rsykw/ThF30IWAZOI/AAAAAAAAB4c/bNm4BxCS1aA/s400/IMG_0087.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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These dancers may or may not have been part of the official parade...who knows?<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/aE_-LhJZhspdXhBwONc9indA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hAmFoyvQ2IQ/ThF4FlP3qfI/AAAAAAAAB4g/wRNdgNJwU8U/s400/IMG_0089.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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The last god to arrive was Jagganath, prompting an extra dose of fanfare. The video below isn't great, but gives a feel of the event. The men were carrying him in a prone position, but are preparing to place him on a white stool that will be carried to the chariot.<br />
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<iframe width="450" height="286" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/N4aeTQLab5A?rel=0&hd=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><br />
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After all three gods were seated in the chariot, I really wanted to stay to see the men fighting to get their hands on the ropes that pull the cart. But all 100,000 people were in the same area now, we'd been standing in the drizzle for more than an hour at that time, and a friend told us that a puja (religious ritual) would be performed for about an hour before the chariot moved. Plus we were hungry. So we didn't get to see that part, but were glad we went.Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-21218997242736259822011-06-28T14:14:00.000+05:302011-06-28T14:14:39.698+05:30Sweating in a Sari in Sambalpur<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
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Last Thursday and Friday, we were outside of Koraput to attend our friend's sister's wedding in Sambalpur, another district of Orissa. This was our 5th Indian wedding, attending required taking 2 days off work that we technically didn't have, and the wedding was 12 hours away by train, so we weren't that excited about it. But after our friend asked us in person or on the phone about 7 times, sent us text messages about it, caught me on Facebook chat to remind me how important it was, and emailed, we couldn't very well say no. So we decided to change our attitude about it, arrange the train tickets and the days off from work, and party on!<br />
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The train left Koraput at about 8 a.m. and arrived in Sambalpur at 6 p.m. An entire day on a train with books and knitting and iPods isn't that bad, but has its sticky and smelly and boring moments for sure. A fellow passenger started a conversation with us, asking the same questions as always -- What are you doing in India? What NGO do you work for? What kind of work? How do you feel about India?. For us, it's not that interesting to have these conversations, but I understand the attraction to the average Indian with nothing to occupy his time for the entire train ride, so we try to be patient. He also asked us how much money we make, which is not as popular of a question, but is totally acceptable to ask. When we told him, his response was, "<i>What?! Only xx? </i>You should work in Bangalore, you can make much more. Your work here in India is a wastage of time if you only make xx!" We cut the conversation short after that.<br />
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When we arrived in Sambalpur, we called our friend and she came to pick us up. She took us to our hotel, which was perfect. Simple no-frills room, quiet and windowless, but with A/C! After an hour, I was transported to the wedding hall, where I was dressed in my sari. I wish I would have just followed the pictorial instructions that I have instead of relying on the women in the "bridal suite" where I was taken. There were about 20 women either helping the bride or just hanging out, so they all took the opportunity to watch me undress. Then, I think the short "auntie" who was dressing me was nervous or something because she took a full 20 minutes to fold and refold my sari around me. It was hot, probably at least 90 in that room, and I was sweating so much from my face that it was literally dripping off my chin. Gross! Needless to say, I wasn't in a great mood when I was released from the room and found Corey. I'll admit that I'm totally over the thrill of wearing a sari -- I already have good pictures of me in 3 different saris and they are not that flattering to my figure or the least bit comfortable, especially when walking or climbing a lot of stairs.<br />
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Not a great pic, but it's the best we have.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/deVkUZHL_wQIR_jJ9jDiG3dA60dROkEyz6Q3kjVg5YU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YlOl69e0PR0/TgmPZiFT9ZI/AAAAAAAAB3U/5PbW_KMSYN8/s400/P1070098.JPG" height="400" width="299" /></a><br />
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Dinner was served at about 9 p.m. from stations around the big hall. This was cool, not something we'd seen in India before. There was the usual buffet line, but also a coffee station, chow mein station, shaved ice station, a rice pudding station, some street-food snack stations, and a few others. The food was delicious.<br />
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This curious cow came to tell us that her invitation was lost in the mail.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/ginagrone/SustainableDignityCoreyAndGinaInIndia?authkey=Gv1sRgCPXPtsOg_oSHRQ&feat=embedwebsite#5623184006258674930"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Qe6rUIFpSfc/TgmQD4-0zPI/AAAAAAAAB3Y/SqE7kqljzYE/s400/P1070102.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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The stars "aligned" at 10:30, so that's about the time that the loud, dancing processional with the groom's party arrived. Soon after, the rituals started on stage. Sadly (to me, at least) only about 40 people were still there compared to the 200+ that were at dinner! The upside, though, was that everyone still there was focused on the wedding instead of just chatting with each other and on their cellphones and ignoring the main event, which is what we've seen at the other weddings. The rituals can sometimes last for 6 hours or more, but this ceremony was finished in about 3. I can't explain the significance of any of the rituals or items, but the turmeric, flowers, puffed rice, fire, string, oil lamps, mangos, gifted cloth, gold cardboard crowns, and cement stepping stone all had symbolic significance. <br />
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It looked similar to other weddings we've been to, so I took very few pics. Here the bride and groom are both covered, just before they're revealed to each other.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/ginagrone/SustainableDignityCoreyAndGinaInIndia?authkey=Gv1sRgCPXPtsOg_oSHRQ&feat=embedwebsite#5623185665548158642"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rJZ4I3Ho4Io/TgmRkeURBrI/AAAAAAAAB3g/Eu6cTW5K6dw/s400/P1070106.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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It was interesting to watch even if I had no idea of the purpose. Following expectations, the bride did not smile the entire time, but held an empty look on her face. She's not supposed to show happiness that she's being separated from her family.<br />
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We returned to the hotel at about 2 a.m. Since I was in my sari, I had to ride the motorbike side-saddle for the first time, which I disliked a lot. I can understand the need for women to ride that way if they're in a sari, but I think women wearing pants should always ride astride, it's so much safer! <br />
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I slept later than Corey (as usual) and woke up to him returning from one of his "exploring trips" with breakfast! We ate, then chilled out (literally) in the room for a few hours. There wasn't anything to do in Sambalpur but browse the shops and it was hot, over 100 degrees. I was feeling no obligation to make use of the day by leaving my nice cool hotel room, so Corey picked up lunch for us when he became restless. Before I knew it, it was nearly 7 p.m. and I had spent the entire day relaxing on the bed, not even seeing the sunlight for 1 minute of the day (due to the lack of windows). Awesome!<br />
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The overnight train ride home was uneventful. I tried hiding in my top bunk to avoid conversations from curious fellow travelers, but an annoying but friendly gentleman insisted on asking questions to me while I'm laying down 6 feet above him...awkward! The usual questions again, though this time I had to devote some effort to convincing him that the U.S. actually does have beggars and people living on the street. Not the first time that I've had to correct someone from thinking that all Americans are wealthy. Anyway, we arrived in Koraput at 8:30 a.m., showered and headed to work!Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8240059390634049515.post-10758831724733006532011-06-22T17:08:00.001+05:302011-06-22T17:23:53.516+05:30Bugger Off, Pests<b>Gina writes:</b><br />
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A few insignificant events in the past few weeks have caused Corey and I to say more than a few times, "We wouldn't have done <i>that</i> in the U.S.!" I'm talking about our relationship with pests -- cockroaches, mice, ants, and other unwelcome but ever-present mini-beasts. With the hottest months of the year behind us and rainy season just about to rear its ugly head, insects and rodents and pests of pretty much every type are hanging out in our wonderfully ventilated (and not sealed from the outdoors) home.<br />
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First, there are the mice and chipmunks. Granted, we haven't seen a mouse in months and the chipmunk is really more cute than pesky, but it's worth it to say that our reaction to their presence is decidedly lackadaisical. "Um...Corey? There's the chipmunk again...yeah, just ran into the kitchen. Sure, we can wait until the Simpsons finishes." When it suits us, chase it out, pack the rags into the hole a little tighter, return to our awesome lives.<br />
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The war against the crawlies -- ants and cockroaches -- has pretty much been won. After 20 months of drawing pastel green anti-ant chalk lines (that stuff really works!) in creative patterns wherever we found ant armies boldly marching, being <i>very</i> vigilant about quickly washing dishes that had greasy or sugary residue, and keeping the extra-strength HIT on hand for the surprise two-inch monsters, we don't have much of a problem...for Indian standards. About once a week, we find a two-inch cockroach and we have cockroach babies skittering over our kitchen counters, but their presence is just part of being in India and doesn't seem gross or unclean to us anymore. And this past weekend, the loaf of bread that we had purchased was sold with a complementary colony of ants, which I didn't realize until I was about to make some toast. Instead of throwing out the whole loaf, I toasted the pieces on the skillet and calmly picked the ants off the bread as they crawled to the surface to get away from the heat! The rest of the loaf, however, we did give to the neighborhood dogs.<br />
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The war against the flying fiends -- mosquitos and flies -- however, will never be won. Despite mosquito nets covering the windows (and our bed of course), plug-in mosquito repellent, constantly burning mosquito coils, mosquito repellent cream and/or spray for sitting outside or in the SPREAD office after 6 p.m., long sleeves and pants if it's not too hot, and fans (if the power isn't out), the mosquitos still get us. No, we have not "gotten used to" the number of mosquitos in Koraput. The flies are another problem that I never thought about before coming to India. Tiny tiny mango flies plague us from April to June (mango season) by hanging out right in front of our eyes. We try to ignore them, but are forced to constantly wave them away, since the alternative is that they land right on our eyeballs...gross!<br />
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When it comes to miscellaneous bugs in dry food -- weevils in the flour, unknowns in dried chickpeas or nuts -- we've reached a truce. Flour bugs aren't really an issue since we decided to buy the prepackaged flour instead of bulk. Almost every time we buy chickpeas, there are bugs lodged inside some of the kernels. Some bugs float to the surface when the peas are soaked; for the others, we pick through the chickpeas handful by handful and toss the ones with a little visible black spot (sometimes moving, sometimes not). They go in the pressure cooker anyway, so who cares, right? (To our six visitors from the U.S., don't worry, we picked out all the bugs before feeding you!)<br />
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The last pest seems to be kind of a stretch, but it's one that we deal with every single day -- bacteria! We boil and filter every single drop of water that we drink, to destroy the bacteria; this is something I will definitely not miss after returning to the U.S.! As for milk and yogurt, we consume a lot of each, but have to be careful to smell and/or taste it before consuming it, since there is a good chance that it's spoiled, sometimes even before we open it. Both milk and yogurt are sold in 1/2 litre bags, which is annoying at times, but necessary since a 1/2 litre bag will not last more than 3 days in the winter and 1-2 in the summer. In the U.S., the milk is considered to be either spoiled or not. Here in India, we've learned that there are varying degrees of "spoilage" and that, sometimes, slightly spoiled milk on cereal wins out over no breakfast or running out in the morning to buy more milk! And last weekend, Corey made a delicious fruit salad with pineapple, mango, banana, and yogurt. The next day, it was definitely tangier than it was the first time...we ate it anyway, not wanting to waste the fruit!<br />
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As rainy season begins, we have one more "pest" to look forward to -- mold. Soon, our clothes and sheets and mattresses and well...everything...will need to be regularly aired out to avoid white hairy mold like we talked about in <a href="http://sustainabledignity.blogspot.com/2010/08/rainy-season.html">this entry</a> last year. Oh well, bring it on, I found bleach in the market!<br />
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Now excuse me while I go swat at the mosquitos starting to swarm...Ginahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06671705517563724544noreply@blogger.com